100V stepdown mess solution?

I think many Europeans which import game consoles from overseas, be it the USA or Japan, have the same problem.

A cluttering of stepdown converters for each system without a usable EU-AC-Adapter (Like Famicom, Super Famicom, FDS, Dreamcast, PS2, etc)

Are there any power bars or stepdown converters which can power more than one console, so that only one or two converters will be needed. Instead of one for every device (Just think of a MegaCD32X).

Has anyone had experiences with a solution to this 'PAL-Land-Problem'? As my collection of import system grows, also does the need for additional power bricks.

btw: Prais to consoles with external power bricks with EU-equivalents (X360, GC, Wii, N64)

 

i have a 200w stepdown converter with 2 sockets.

 

Lol, I have the same problem! Hopefully there might be a way...

 

also when possible i fit an european psu in the console.

 

Umm, I have a heavy duty step-down that'll power any console. I just use the original PSU that came with the console. When I want to use the console, I plug it in. There's no reason to leave more than one plugged in at a time - you can't play them both at once, and you shouldn't leave devices plugged in when unused anyway!

If you REALLY wanted to, you could swap most PSUs for a local equivalent. As you said, some of the custom ones (e.g. N64, Gamecube) are swappable. Others use standard connectors (Mega Drive/Genesis, Super Famicom (not American SNES), NES etc.) so you can replace the PSU with either a genuine one in your country, or go to your local electronics store and get something that outputs the same voltage and current (note: you can go over the current rating, but not under).

So yeah, either replace the PSU or have a single, decent step-down that'll power whichever console you want to use at the time ;-)

 

Super Famicom does not like European power supplies, and with a 3rd Party, it has scrolling artefacts on the screen, and the sound humms.

Also I do not like to un-and replug JAP/US powersupplies, those prongs seem to be a lot less sturdy than European ones.

Great would be a Step-Down converter with a power switch, and connecting a power bar or what those things are called in English.

 

I just got me one of these:

 

That's exactly what I did to my jap xbox/ps2's (two of em') and dreamcast consoles. Ideally, go for the multi-voltage ones which auto-regulate the power so there really is no worry of ever blowing something up, wherever you travel.

The Gamecube doesn't fall into this category as you can use a EU psu on a Jap/US console (I think that's the case with all Nintendo consoles, as the psu is always external?)

The only internal psu I couldn't buy for a console for was for my Jap saturn... Does anyone know if they ever existed (110-240v internal replacable psu that auto regulates) ?

I'd love to know.

btw/ If anyone's ever worried about using a chinese replacement psu over things like poor quality products/etc...

My jap xbox (yes, they do exist!) had a replacement psu fitted about 6 years ago and finally blew up around 8 months ago. I always pulled out the power chord to plug stuff in so I'd always hear that 'burst' of electricty (spike) whenever I unplugged it. Eventually I guess it got too much (my xbox was my media center for all those years, used everyday....and then some) Anyway, I replaced it a few months later and it's up and running again, as before.

Bottom line - those things aren't cheaply made and they can take a heck of a lot of use. I'd go so far as to say the Chinese psu was probably better made than the original psu it came with.

 

If you get hum, and it is only with a 3rd party PSU, then you haven't bought the right PSU!

You need the right voltage, AT LEAST the right current, AC or DC (IMPORTANT as SNES/NES use AC, not DC which is the more common for a generic PSU) and note whether the original was regulated or unregulated. The console usually handles regulation.

Come to think of it, you should get a European PSU that works fine. Check the specs on the Japanese one, but I'm sure we used them no problem. And that the replacement ones we sold were marked NES / Super Nintendo / Super Famicom, IIRC - it is possible they had an AC/DC switch, though. If your SF doesn't work with either official or unofficial PSUs, then I would wonder if your console has a fault... that or you have the wrong spec PSU. Definately check the specs on the original PSU carefully before getting a local replacement.

 

All you need is a good 220:110V transformer and a power strip.

If the A/V hums, you've got a transmission line problem; make sure everything is connected to the same ground.

 

Like Calpis said, why not get a US style surge/power strip? Plug it into your step-down and you have many outlets at 110v or 100v or whatever.

Also, the prongs on the US adapters are plenty sturdy unless you bought some cheap 3rd party power adapter.

The SFC needs an adapter outputting 10 volts DC, at 850ma. I believe the polarity is center negative tip.

 

I have one (1) official SFC Power Supply, I just didn't want to use two powerbricks for one console, but it seems not to be really possible.

That 3rd party thing is a general power supply with switchable voltages and ground/phase connection.

For my NTSC-Cube, I bought me a used PAL to use it's power brick (works like a charm) but I still would like replacements for my Super Famicom, AV Famicom and FDS. Also one of my old EU-AC Adaptors for my NES is brocken, it only works under special bendy conditions, but it's kinda hard to get 9V AC here.

For Import Consoles, the Stepdown Converter babu posted would be interessting, now where to get a US power distributor.

 

You can use Direct Current on the NES without a problem. You don't need AC. That's what I've heard atleast.

 

If you're going to use a strip, get a switched one. A cheaper (lower rated) step-down won't thank you if you accidentally turn on too many devices at once! OK, most consoles won't be a problem, but it is better to be safe. Not only that, but it is a waste of electricity as the adapters DO draw current without the system being on (hence why you shouldn't leave chargers plugged in).

 

I've got a 1KW autotransformer which I stole from a dead copying machine... I added multiple outlets to it and voila you could even run power tools from it and you still have enough power for other stuff :3
For systems with internal power supplies I either find a suitable EU replacement or if its just a transformer, I'll replace it with some 220 to 12V one which I have a ton...

 

It works, but you'll get a humming noise on your sound output. So I'll use AC in any means possible.

 

Some other question from my side: If I wanted to use a PAL console in the US, how much would a "step-up" transformator set me back? I suppose they're not as cheap as a simple stepdown-converter in Europe as its a more complicated process to make 220V out of 110V - or is it not?

 

You could theoretically just swap the ends of the plugs and sockets, and it'll work in the other direction. (That's the wonder of AC <-> AC conversion).

If the console is somewhat new and has an external powerbrick, wich are the same on the console side worldwide (N64, Cube, Wii, X360) just try to get an official power-brick from the manufacturer, should set you back about max. US30.-

 

For Dreamcast you can simply switch the internal PSU from an European model into your US/JP model.


- I also got a question though: Are Japanese and US power sockets and currancy compatible with each other ? Can you Americans use a Japanese machine with your outlets ?

 

The US and Japanese are basically the same, Japan uses 100V and america 120V but the small difference makes no difference for most things. The plugs are basically the same, although American plugs sometimes have one pin larger so it has polarity and can only be plugged in one way and these may not fit into Japanese plug sockets. American plugs may also having an earthing pin and these will not fit into a Japanese socket.

Japanese plugs can fit into american sockets though, although consoles like the Playstation 3 which has a plug with an earthing lead, you can replace this with a standard earthed IEC (PC) cable.