120v to 100v step down transformer for Japanese consoles in the US?

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by dark, Jul 22, 2013.

  1. MonkeyBoyJoey

    MonkeyBoyJoey 70's Robot Anime GEPPY-X (PS1) Fanatic

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    I say go for the 9V versions of the Sega Genesis Model 1 PSU (MK-1602). That outputs 9V at 1.2A. The polarity is center-pin negative (+)------(O------(-) so make sure the Color TV Game accepts that. If it is center pin positive, you will need a different PSU or you will have to change the polarity of the MK-1602.
     
  2. android34

    android34 Newly Registered

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    Thank you. I appreciate the response. One more question, if you might happen to know. I have a Sega SG-1000, which has a Japanese 100V AC 9V DC adapter. I am able to run it, and I am also able to use a Genesis/Master System power supply with it just fine. I have a step up/down 100V/120V transformer. I wanted to run the Japanese 100V power supply through the transformer to be on the safe side. If something were to happen to that original SG-1000 adapter, and all I had was the 120V AC 9V DC adapter, would I be able to plug that into the 100V slot of the transformer as well, or would that not really matter because the power supply is a 120V? I figured it would just dumb it down to 100 volts through the transformer, but I wasn't sure. I'd rather only have 100 volts coming in to the power supply, if I can. I was also thinking of trying one of those 100V-230V AC 9V DC adapters to have as a backup for the Japanese stuff. If I do end up getting one of those, would it still be a good idea to run it through that 100V step up transformer, or would that not be necessary? I appreciate the help.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2015
  3. MonkeyBoyJoey

    MonkeyBoyJoey 70's Robot Anime GEPPY-X (PS1) Fanatic

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    If the Sega Genesis/Master System psu works fine, use that in the wall outlet instead of a transformer and the original Japanese psu.

    If the original ends up dying when using a transformer, don't plug the American psu into the transformer's 100V outlet. You could either underpower it or damage it, which might cause a fire.

    Not sure about those universal psus but if they are the correct rating and polarity, they should work fine.
     
  4. wilykat

    wilykat Site Supporter 2013

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    Nearly all of the consoles from 80's and many from 90's are designed with 5v internal regulator so 10v will be fine. Observe polarity though. If it says center positive, the adapter must also have center positive. A few consoles like NES used AC rather than DC and will be fine with DC, any polarity.

    AFAIK Colecovision is the only exception to the classic console's 5v rule, they used 12v for the RAM chips.
     
  5. android34

    android34 Newly Registered

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    How do you check the polarity on the ac adapters and the systems themselves? I'm getting an old Nintendo Color TV Game Block Kuzushi without a power supply, but the specs for it are the same as the SG-1000's original power supply.
     
  6. android34

    android34 Newly Registered

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    I wasn't sure if plugging a 100V Japanese power supply into the wall was not good, since the US is 120V. I have read that people like to use the step down transformer when using the Japanese power supplies on the Japanese systems in the US.
     
  7. wilykat

    wilykat Site Supporter 2013

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    Generally it's marked somewhere that looks like picture below:
    [​IMG]

    If it's not marked, and you can open the system take a picture of the power circuit and us experts can try to figure out what it uses. Unless someone has the same console and can tell us the polarity?
     
  8. Lum

    Lum Officer at Arms

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    Consensus on 100V devices in the US is mixed, if mainly positive, but there's little point in taking unnecessary risks.
    When a console has an official US equivalent from the original manufacturer then it's best to use it.
     
  9. APE

    APE Site Supporter 2015

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    5v, 12v, and -12v IIRC. You can bypass the need for -12v by installing replacement RAM chips which is great because the Colecovision power brick is hard to come by and massive. I'd rather use a smaller switching supply or flat out internalize it.

    Use a multimeter. If you're hardcore into retro gaming you'll want to pick one up. They're relatively inexpensive for a starter model (voltage, resistance, continuity) and you'll find it very useful with batteries.
     
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