so i got a broken 3do sanyo. after som testing I think im going mad. The tray is very irratic. if I start it open. the tray will half close. if i start with it closed nothing will happen. the mech has 2 microswitches one for fully closed and one for fully open if I insert a CD and put a finger behind the mech in fully openposition so that the trey will hit my finger half way. The disc will load fine! No laser preblem or other. but the damn tray wont close and play as normal. one would think that if the open switch is closed. the motor would spin until the open switch is open and the closed switch is closed... but no. the motor accutuates half way at the same spot each time with no switch closed any help is apriciated, i guess this is the same mech as in the goldstar drive. i susspect the clutch wheel but it seems fine.
Have you checked the belt tension? Sometimes the drive belt becomes slack and slips when opening or closing. The band can be temporarily retentioned by boiling for 5 mins and then leaving to cool. Edit: just realised the Sanyo is gear driven.
yup. gear driven. belt would have been better in this case. the "cluch" assembly is weak. thanks tho found the fault. stupid ribbon cable from the laser mech to the driver board. the one who moves. anyway to get a repalcement. or am i bound by singel stranded copper wire/kynar?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/goldstar-3...507821?hash=item362fff80ed:g:zqUAAOSw1LRa0Yb1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Goldstar-Sanyo-3DO-Replacement-Drive-Laser-Ribbon-Cable-NEW-/142488051194
Not sure if they are backwards compatible, but with the second saying they all fit in the title I would visually compare.
you don't have to do a big research, its always the same with goldstars and sanyos the stupid design with the crazy ribbon cable, I remember as a kid i used to cut its tip and scratch a new end by a blade to fix it, works for a dew days , then back to craziness. well i would suggest keeping the upper cover open, and disconnecting the power cable of eject motor of the drive.. or innovate by making it a flexible cable by some IDE cable ,, never tried that though..
i think il make a IDE one. or try. the shipping is a killer on those from the US to Sweden. thanks guys! I lost my patiance with the IDE monster. But i did find 30 pin count 20 cm lenght 1mm pitch flat flex cable on Aliexpress. 5 pcs for 2$! (original is 18cm length) awsome! and now to play the waiting game.
got the flat cable installed. and its working! now i have enough cables to keep it going for the rest of my life (taped a bunch on the RF-shield) How is the caps on the Sanyo units? in desperate need or just its showing signs? waiting for the new RGB mod to come.
Not sure about Sanyo Try caps but I've seen the psu caps on FZ-1 go bad. Symptoms include recurrent resets and distorted sound. One FZ-1 had bad corrosion of the traces around these caps. I managed to solder replacement caps to what was left of the plated through holes. After that, I replaced the same 2 caps on my personal FZ-1 to avoid potential breakdown and corrosion in the future. Which RGB mod are u thinking of installing?
thanks! first i was going to use yure BU3616K design. but that chip seems rare and expensive. so now im waiting for your genius to be done with something new
Haha. Thanks, but far from it . It was just a little luck and a lot of reading datasheets. The BU3616K or BU3618K are readily available online. UTSource.com has the BU3618K for $5 per chip. The problem with using newer IC (if u can find a newer IC that handles SD resolutions) is they need a lot of level shifting to be compatible with old host systems like the 3DO. I am working on a new version of the mod but it will still use an old IC and won't be published for a few months (subject to successful testing). This will be more of a sister mod to support 240p on older FZ-1 (BT9101) which don't support it. I would suggest trying the BU3616/8K based mod if u want to get your 3DO RGB up and running.
ok i see. got a deal on 5 bu3618k. seems like a fun soldering job. now to order the boards. thanks for the design. Levelshifting is a hassel but i guess it will be necessary in the future. Awsome job, thanks!
Your welcome. I wanted to make the project open source so that people could have better access to RGB solutions for the 3DO. It's not too tricky to solder. I started with the BU361xK and LM1881 first and then soldered the remaining discretes. Have fun. N.b I have replaced the encoder on my 3DO for a direct replacement which has RGB ability (BT9103 > BT856) making a natively RGB able 3DO but this is only possible with PAL and Canadian FZ-1.
