SOLVED AES button problem

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by Kaicer, Feb 16, 2016.

  1. Kaicer

    Kaicer Site Supporter 2014

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    Hi guys, I'm having a problem with my neogeo AES that the button C on the controller port 1 is not registering input. I have tried multiple pads and all of the give the same problem so the controllers problems is out of the equation. I check the solders of the ports and all of them are fine, also check traces and continuity from the port to what it looks like a network array and they where fine. But I don't know where it goes after the array. I thought is was like the mvs that it ends in a chip, and it might be but is certainly not the same as mvs. Any light on it?

    Add the photo to the array I trace it the CR4
     

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016
  2. Digmac

    Digmac Removed for Not Reuploading Juiced Fast Enough

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    @Kaicer funny seeing you here over from Neo-Geo.
     
  3. GoodTofuFriday

    GoodTofuFriday Site Supporter 2015,2016,2017

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    what model is your board? I can check the two that I have. Funny to this here from the NG forum
     
  4. ASSEMbler

    ASSEMbler Administrator Staff Member

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    Make sure the pull ups or downs are still in spec.
     
  5. Kaicer

    Kaicer Site Supporter 2014

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    Well the funny thing is that I posted on neogeo 3 days ago and got no helpful response. Also I'm not sure what version I have. I'm going to check that and put it here.

    Well I got no idea what revision is but is the same as the photo.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016
  6. s8n

    s8n Enthusiastic Member

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    i think the Revision is underneath the Memory Card reader ( bottom right hand side of board ) , it should say something like 3-3 3-4 3-5 for example. You will need to remove the 2 screws and you should be able to move the reader so you can reveal the Revision on the motherboard
     
  7. ASSEMbler

    ASSEMbler Administrator Staff Member

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    You using an original controller with black buttons or a newer one that needs 5v?
     
  8. GoodTofuFriday

    GoodTofuFriday Site Supporter 2015,2016,2017

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    you have a first gen board, which are harder to find. As evidenced by the daughter board over the memory card slot.
    I have the rev after that which only removes the daughter board as far as I know. Ill scope out the trace and let you know where to look.
    From seeing your thread on NG its definitely not a cold joint at the controller port yes?
     
  9. Kaicer

    Kaicer Site Supporter 2014

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    Ok cool thanks this is driving me nuts. Assembler I'm using the original big arcade stick. I also check with an arcade stick I made but it was the same.
     
  10. GoodTofuFriday

    GoodTofuFriday Site Supporter 2015,2016,2017

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    I traced out the trace you pointed out and it ends up at the cart connector. It goes over and under the board so if you need me to make a map let me know. I don't want to make one if you don't need it aha.

    I also wanted to ask what makes you think this trace is related to the c button
     
  11. ASSEMbler

    ASSEMbler Administrator Staff Member

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    Should be able to test it by just using a wire in case the controller is bad.
     
  12. Kaicer

    Kaicer Site Supporter 2014

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    Well I was looking at this schematic and it says that the that the pin 12 in the controller port that is the C button goes thru that BF11 that I don't know what is that and into the sixth leg on the CR4, then it goes out from the seventh leg but there I got lost. I don't know what could be making the button not working.

    Edit: Ok I track the output of the CR4 seventh leg and it end on the leg 74 of the PRO-BO chip.
    Edit again: Aparently the problem was that BF11 piece it was making contact to give continuity but not enough to make the button register. I put a good blob of solder with flux so it goes thru and it register now. I hope it stay like that, the piece is like a jumper with ferrite.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 16, 2016
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  13. ASSEMbler

    ASSEMbler Administrator Staff Member

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    It's an electrical choke to make sure the DC current has no issues most likely.

    Glad you got this working, I will change the status to a happy "solved"
     
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