Model scph-70011. When you power on or reset (and sometimes power off) the system, you hear the brief buzzing/humming as the laser unit slides. I'm having a problem where, while the system is powered on, just any kind of light contact with the PS2 close and around the power/reset button will trigger that noise. It also happens, but much more rarely like once or twice, while playing; at moments when it otherwise shouldn't be doing that. So the PS2 is so sensitive to the touch that it somehow causes the laser to slide. It happens when touching the lid, around the power button and the front-right corner. To power down the system, I need to grip it awkwardly so it doesn't trigger the laser movement before even pressing the button. It seems like something loose/broken with the lid, but I'd like to get a more certain opinion on it.
yeah, although you might want to check the other lid sensor too. What are the odds of the other sensor not developing problems? For my case, I believed that it was caused by the extensive use of SwapMagic. Even after I removed the Magic Key set, the problem didn't go away. BTW, if you ever take your console apart, do NOT tug on the flat cable that connects to your optical block assembly. If that part becomes detached from the hard plastic tab at the optical block, the flat cable may end up touching the disc's surface when the sled is at the home position. That happened to me... and my console started to cause circular rings on all my PS2 games, even the limited edition ones.
Seconded on the lid sensor. Have had a few slims come by me where the lid no longer closed 100% and the sensor would easily trip.
That makes sense, it's most probably the issue. I notice that even though the lid is closed, pressing on it makes it go down a slight bit further, like it's loose. I had gone Gameshark-crazy and Code Breaker-crazy for a bit until a few years ago. Was lots of fun, but I guess I'm facing the consequences. What's the difficulty/extent of repair for this?
I'm pretty sure I fixed one of these by bypassing the faulty switch. You need both to detect the lid is shut, so bypassing one (bit of solder, making it always closed) still lets the console detect the lid is open etc. It was some years ago, but I think I'm remembering it right