After the success with the AV-mod on my Odyssey 2, I decided to start with 5200. I only like the 4-portversion so I have to fix the powermod as well since that version was supplied with both power and RF through one cable that went into a switchbox. To begin with, there are three things to remove from the motherboard. RF cable, capacitor C45 and inductor L8. It looks like this when all three of them are removed. Those 2 holes in the middle between + and – shall not be used at all so leave them empty. Those 2 holes that lies closest to the RF shield on + and – shall have the replacing capacitor of 47uF, 63 and it has to be connected with the right polarity. On the other two holes that remain there should be the cables that goes to the DC jack and the + cable will be solered or connected to a diode that ensures the direct current. On the inside of the DC jack there should be a capacitor between + and – of 0,1uF. The rest of the powermod was not documented further in pictures but her is a list of required parts for modifyiing a 5200: DC-jack chassi 2,5-5,5 mm Electrolyte Capacitor 47uF, 63V Capacitor 0,1uF, 50V Diode 3A, 100V, 1N5401 Cable that is thick enough in its area Lets have a look at the picture. There is a couple of resistors that lies in the upper right corner within the RF-shield. LUMA are the signals that has to be amplified while CHROMA and AUDIO can go without it. These resistors are here: AUDIO is located further down on the board to the right of R40. AUDIO was given a red cable, CHROMA was given a brown one, SYNC has the black cable and LUMA got the yellow ones. Here is the AV-card that I built. Even if the circuits took much place I managed to get them all in place and solder them in the right way. The +5V power was taken from a random resistor near the powerswitch. You can take it from anywhere in the console as long as it is’nt more than +5V. The schematics I followed was originally written in wordpad so I draw my own to make it easier for myself to understand it. It should look like this and you get both C-Video and S-Video from that as long as you got both of the jacks This is the rear now when the modification is done.To the left is the DC-jack, to the right is the AUDIO and C-Video. I had no drill with matching size to the S-videojack so I save it for later but the AV-card is ready for S-Video so I just have to put it in place The mod worked at once. I started early in the morning and was done with the mod the same day and that is a new record. It was a good day for modifying Pac-Man on 5200 is more like the arcadeversion than the VCS version(captain-obvious) The picture looks better than this but that TV is not as good as my other one at displaying the signal from the 5200 AV-mod needs these parts: RCA jacks Phono 2x (red and yellow) S-Video jack MiniDIN 4-pol Diode 1A, 1000V, 1N4007 Resistors: 10 ohm 75/82 ohm 2x 750 ohm 1,6 kohm 2 kohm 2x 4,7 kohm 9,1 kohm 18 kohm 36 khom (or 2x 18 kohm in serial connection) Capacitors: 1uF, 50V, Ceramic 10uF, 63V, Electrolyte 100uF, 63V, Electrolyte Transistor 2N3904, 40V, 0,2A, NPN Small cables in different colors It is sort of complicated to do this mod but yet easy as I newer done it this quickly.
Here's a great free piece of software for drawing schematics http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3735.0
Hi guys a mate of mine has one but does not power on i have never worked on one of these plus on thing he is in the usa.
