[New revision of my giude] Not the most necessary picture, but these are some of the parts that are going to be used. Even a drawn-by-hand schematics lie by it's side. This time it is included in this guide, further down This is the RF-modulator unit. It is placed inside a shielding box, that is attached to the casing of the system by two screws. It also has three wires connected between it and the motherboard and these wires are C-Video, Audio and +5V. It is easy to unplug these wires, as well as the antenna cable that is connected to the other side of the box. This is the only way of unplugging the antenna cable as it is stuck to the casing of the system. Remove this box without harming the wires, going to the motherboard This is the RF-switchbox that is connected to the TV. The black wire hanging down from is used to be connected to the modulator box, shown in the picture above This is the rear of the system. The tiny hole on the right side of this picture is were the antenna cable came out from, when it was connected internally to the RF-modulator. I figured the plain rectangular area in the middle, right beside the power-input should do fine, for the RCA-jacks. This is however a bad place as the motherboard is positioned right there, and there simply is no way of putting the RCA-jacks there, without the solerside touching the motherboard. They have to be placed a little further up on the side Before I can connect my AV-mod board to the console, I will have to remove the RF-modulator from it's shielding. That board is soldered to the shielding so I got to desolder it from the shield. There are plenty of holes in the shield for running through wires, so fortunately no drilling of new holes, is required on the shield It may take some time to desolder the RF-board but once it is done, you may proceed. Here, the RF-modulator has been removed Then I assemble my new A/V-board if that has not been done before(does not matter). Before it is placed inside the shielding, small rubberfeet must be glued to the subside of the board, in order to keep the parts isolated from the shield. Also be sure to polish the sides of the board, diagonally so that remaining leads wont touch and get shortened to the case of the shield. Only the GND-wire of this board, may be connected to the casing of the shield. The green wire is used for GND. The AV-board is connected to the motherboard by the A/V/+5 wires that used to be connected to the RF-modulator Schematics for the Odyssey 2: IN order to get a sharp and crisp clean image, a 100nF capacitor is connected between +5V and GND on the AV-board. The C-Video In signal has no connection directly to the +5V or GND Schematics for the Videopac: (I can't verify this one for sure) In order to decrease the strong colors a little bit, a 270pF capacitor is connected between C-Video In and GND. I did this one in first place on my Odyssey 2, and that screwed up the picture, so make sure you use the right circuit, for the right region of this console(NTSC is different from PAL). Once done with this, the shielding with it's lid, is screwed back to it's position inside the console's casing. The motherboard is connected to the AV-board and placed back on top of it as the picture shows If the image is to dark, the trimpot has to be decreased, to make the picture sharper and brighter. When testing the image quality, a prefect game for this is Crypto-Logic. Just press down every character as shown in the picture, and you get a good grip on the image quality, the brightness and color of the screen I also tried the PAL-version of Pick Axe Pete and it shown great quality too, when it came to color and sharpness So I have come to the conclusion that modification of this system is quite easy to perform. I also hope that this new revision of my guide will come to a better use than my first draft did. With more details it should do more justice. Enjoy everyone!
I am sure there is one already. Cause as far as I know there should be a videosignal in every console that can be amplified for use in a AV-mod if there is no AV/scart on the console
Well I was educated to an electrician in school and my main area was electronics like this things in here. But this is funnier than in school cause you learn more from doing these kinds of mods than reading books about amplifiers. It is now when I put together this mods that I finally understands the amplifiers I was reading about in school and how they work The only mod I did in school was when I purchased Mega Man 6 to the NES and it was PAL insted of NTSC. The game was american but it had been modified for use with PAL-B NES. So I modified the cartridge back to NTSC so I could play it in my USA NES and with the right speed. But that on the other hand did not require schematics
Ever-so-slightly simpler circuit: http://www.the-nextlevel.com/odyssey2/articles/g7400guide/compositemod.php Pretty sure the Videopac has RGB lines and a RGB to composite encoder (and the French ones had SCART). Yeah, here we are: http://www.the-nextlevel.com/odyssey2/articles/g7400guide/rgbmod.php Note that's the G7400, not the G7000.
Yeah there are a couple of ways to modify the Odyssey2/Videopac. Here is another guide on how to modify the Videopac for RGB: http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:g7000_av I consider it complicated a little Thanks
I have updated my guide in the first post, with better details and descriptions than the other one had. Enjoy it
maybe some one can help i have philips videopac g7000 i have orderd a av mod kit for my pal console but the tuts online look difrent than my motherboard where do i install it and how see pics see link for pic https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...1839073011282.98286.1074232737&type=1&theater
I recently hooked one of these to a TV, it was STRAIGHT. The video being sent to the RF module was already at CVBS specs. Worked perfectly with no extra parts besides two RCA plugs. -_-;
I didn't use the circuit, just pulled the signals straight from the board. http://tabalabs.com.br/videogames/odyssey/o2_tabajara/
