Bacteria's multi-console system project : UNITY

Got the two sections cut to exact size, smoothed on the edges and shaped. The black styrene when sanded to a dull dark grey nearly matches the Jaguar controller, so ideal. Means i'll only need to paint about 2% of the case.

Decided to have the bottom section for the d-pad and 4 main buttons. The top section will be for joystick, "A" and "B" buttons for N64; and start and reset buttons too. Holding the controller to operate the N64 area will automatically position my fingers slightly differently, which means I can mount the "Z" button and it not get in the way at all when not using the N64.

Really happy with the way this will come out. Next job is to wet/dry sand the sections, then secure the sections to the controller. I can then work out the exact placements I want for all the controls.

I've learnt a lot from making the previous controllers and case making, etc.

I should be able to upload photos in the next days.

 

Some pics; sanding the two pieces, smoothing and curving them with sandpaper and then final wet sand with fine grit paper; ready to be installed into the controller.

An hour's worth of careful sanding later:

Then final touches and the wet sanding.

 

Well done! That looks really good

If you decide to paint it, you should use spray paint this time, as it will give a much better finish than using a paintbrush. There are some really knowledgeable people here who knows a thing or two about spray paint. I'm sure they can give you pointers if you decide to go that route

 

Yeah, spray painting has never been my strong point. Spray paint intensifies all blemishes in a surface, no matter how much you fill and sand there are always going to be minor blemishes. Also, smooth spray paint tends to feel "plasticy" IMO. The best spray paint I have used myself is the type that spits out tiny particles to give a "stone" like finish - not only because it is matte in finish but also it fills in small blemishes which is handy.

I am hoping not to need to do this for this controller though as I prefer the style it is, however if the result is not as great as I want then i'll use the type of spray paint as above; as used on my GBA large screen handheld, BigBoy Advance - worked well.

I have 1 more small panel to make, as there is a gap at the front of the controller at the bottom of the keypad area; then will assemble.

 

Done. Two steps on securing the panels into place - firstly a thin bead of superglue to provide the bond and then secondly hot glue to maintain the bond.

Keeping it neat - not using much hot glue as you see.

... and the result so far...


This has come out really well.

The edges and joins are tight but cannot be totally perfect, so aren't; that's the next stage, applying a template around the edges, then using minimal filler (as can't sand in the grooves), then paint on the edges only. Will be interesting how this comes out.

 

When spray painting it's important to take your time, and only apply _very_ thin layers. You need to hold the can about 30cm from the object and then in quick motions "throw" a thin layer on the object. Don't hold down the spray nozzle, only press it for a second when you move the can at a decent speed. Adding too much paint at once, at a single area is bad. You should not aim for complete coverage at once, because then you'll end with some areas being thicker/glossier and even areas where the paint will run.
Depending on the paint type, wait for half an hour to an hour, and repeat several times. It can easily take 2-3 hours total to get a perfect finish, but it's well worth it IMO.

Spray painting is hard if you don't know how to do it properly. But once you learn it isn't that hard. Try watching some videos on YT, preferably with detailed explanation during. But only take advice from someone who knows where they are doing. I'm sure there are plenty of "guides" on YT where the guy will just keep the nozzle held down, at 5cm distance. Compare their end result to the one you with to achieve

Hope that helps a little, should you decide to go that route. I'm sure someone can elaborate further if needed. I'm no expert, but I do have a basic understanding of how this is done correctly.

 

Indeed, that is the process; adding about 4 layers base, wet sanding, spray painting, wet sanding. Best to use car spraypaint not regular, then when done apply wax.

I'm impatient with spray painting, also don't have the space to do it now (I live in a flat now, used to live in a house) and got rid of what I used too.

That's why the spray paint that spits out grains is far easier than going for a pristine gloss look; far less preparation and a more guaranteed result, only need 1 can of it and also some tough clean varnish (needs brushing on).

Not sure if I need to do any of that though, if the process i'm doing at the moment works, will look pretty great without painting.

 

Decided I wasn't going to be happy with the original plan and needed to paint the casing after all.

Didn't use spraypaint, used a technique i've used previously with good results. Not using enamel paint as previously (which had a plasticy feel to touch) but using wall paint; grey black, which I painted on with a brush fairly thickly, then using a mini paint roller to remove most of it but leaving a smooth surface. When paint dried, then applied filler as needed, sanded; repainted.

Process works well, and result looks far nicer too than previously. Got to wait for it to dry totally, then probably apply varnish, leave for a couple of days, then get to work on the holes for the buttons on the case.

 

After applying a coat of paint (brush on, roll off) and filling in the imperfections, got it pretty perfect I think. This is the final painting, next job when the paint is dry is to apply some diamond hard clear satin varnish (Ronseal). That will make the paint resistant to finger grease, chips, etc.

Kept the "Atari" logo as i'll probably put the "Unity" logo on it.


UPDATE - The case halves dried nicely, happy with result - so applied the varnish. I should be able to handle the case halves properly in the morning tomorrow, or certainly the next day, so can then start with the holes for the button placements.

 

Almost all console joysticks work with pots to tell the console how much a joystick has been moved by the change of resistance (exception is the original N64 official controllers which uses a light wheel). The problem is when you take a joystick and replace it with another the values in the pots are different (easy to test with a multimeter). You can use external resistors to bring up or down the resistance within the pots however the resistance in the pots do not then always work as anticipated, and of course the maximum and minimum levels of resistance when the joystick is pushed one way or the other will also be different.

I am using a SuperPad64 controller as I find the larger joystick personally nicer to use than the usual ones, it is just preference. The resistance at rest with those joysticks is about 4.1kohms or thereabouts, up to about 7.5kohms and down to zero. Testing from my stock of normal joysticks, I was getting most around the 5.5 kohms although some were nearly double that.

The SuperPad64 joystick is thick, too wide to go into the Atari Jaguar casing for sure, however I did have in my stock one similar joystick from a different 3rd party N64 controller which has the rotation parts internally not externally, so it fits snugly inside the Jaguar casing. The issue is again, although the pots on that joystick are the same size as the SuperPad64 (ie also large), their resistance is different.

So, opened up a SuperPad64 controller I bought cheaply which has a busted joystick (I will replace that to get a fully working controller again, from stock joystick from same controller type), and removed the pots from that. The shafts are longer than for the one I want to use (the black one in the photo below), however are compatible and also this unit fits into the Jaguar controller - I can get the top of the case closed if I removed the joystick cap and top, which proves it.

A simple mod, but of course means I am using the original pots designed for the N64 controller in my Unity system, so therefore 100% compatible.

The position is pretty much where it needs to be too.

The pot on the right is above the controller case just, so fits.

Planned the position of the d-pad and 4 button pad (the "C" buttons for N64 as "A", "B" and joystick will be on bottom panel). Used a little tape to hold them in position, will cut out the holes tonight or tomorrow.

Taking my time. If I mark the casing doing the hole cutting I can easily repaint and re-varnish the case however that will cause a delay of course.

I used this controller for the d-pad and button area, from a crappy plug'n'play unit. The buttons press positively and feel good, hence using them.

I can't mount the parts behind the controller I am using as the buttons would barely stick out:

...as shown here:

So, using a craft knife, cut out the sections that hold the buttons in place, carefully - then the thickness of the plastic I am removing is about the same thickness as for my case, which is the reason for doing this mod.

 

Hi there !
First, a little word to congrat' you for the amazing job you've done for this gamepad. I really like the finish.
I know that you've already set your joystick solution, but you could have a look here :
http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=5803.0
They're a bit smaller, with some fancy features and calibrating solution.
See ya !

 

Thanks! Lots more work to do on it, but it should work out nicely. Taking my time. I have tired many different variations to make cases in the past, some better than others - the methods i'm using here are what I consider the best methods, from experience.

Nearly threw out the black joystick a while back as it's a bit sticky and couldn't be bothered to clean and oil it (which is what i'm going to do now). The old oil in the joystick is gunky so needs cleaning and oiling - then will be as good as new.

I'll have a look at that linky soon as it might be worth considering for when I make a few more portables for sale in due course and might need to use different joysticks which are a pain otherwise.

 

Where the joystick was going to be was going to have the joystick cap about 1/3 down the slope of the casing, which would look odd. I would have to build up the area and repaint it, however the end result would look bodged. I therefore trimmed the base of the pot by using a sanding drum to trim down the solder joints on the pot to about half, and also trim off the excess of the joystick holder itself. The result is that I managed to get the joystick unit small enough to fit into the Jaguar controller, along about 1cm from where it was so now positioned ideally, and the casing halves still close fine.

I am now about to start hole cutting in the case, will upload photos when have some good stuff to post.

At this rate, there is a good chance I will get the controller finished and wired up before the end of the month. This is certainly the best controller mod I have done ever.

 

I know that don't post much in this thread but I am watching. That jag pad mod is well done.

 

Thanks!

BTW, my website is pretty much completed now, just a few mini guides left, plus of course new project updates and improved techniques to upload, like below. Yesterday, installed a new font for the site, I like the result, after doing a little code tweaking in the theme files.

Got the d-pad holes cut and finished, need to work on the 4 button holes, the ones in the photos below are "first cut". My method is to use a drill bit to cut out the holes to within about 2mm of the edges, as you cannot easily cut accurately with a drill bit. Then, use a diamond coated cylinder sander on a Dremel, to get it pretty much completed (within about 0.5mm from the edges), finish off with small files; I use a small circular one, a larger curved one and flat one. Finishing off with the files also means you can remove any paint flakes by sanding them off the case to leave it good.

Take your time, this process took me about 3 hours, but the result is worth the effort.




Next job are the other holes, and joystick. I made a pilot hole which seems pretty center for the joystick.

A good technique for working out where the button needs the hole cut better to go through the case is to insert it and hold the case up to the light, you then see the blockages and can lightly sand those areas until the button moves freely in the hole. The result, as you see, is pretty flush to the casing.

I thought about using normal cross or circular d-pads however this type is easier to get the 4 directions in a game, and if you want diagonals you press two buttons, which is what happens anyway to get diagonals.

The glue marks from the tape used to keep the d-pad template in place during hole preparation I am expecting to just wipe off with gentle rubbing, if it doesn't then i'll just have to repaint the case afterwards. Should be ok though, it should wash off.

 

Another update my friends!

Finished the button holes i'd started yesterday. Holes are pretty perfect and buttons move freely but not loosely.

Nearly got the pilot hole for the joystick correct before, about 4mm off my guess. Next job is to cut out the joystick hole so the joystick top in the photo fits snugly under the casing. The joystick top will not go over the curve of the case, contrary to how it looks like in the photo.

After that, will be time to do the "A" and "B" buttons to the right of the joystick panel, install shoulder buttons and also the start and reset buttons; then i'll be ready to start work on the inside of the case.

 

Finished the joystick and all the other button holes. I used electrical tape to hold the templates in place, as per photos above, and the glue residue does not come off. I therefore applied another layer of paint to the case, when dry will apply varnish, let it dry, then take photos in the morning and show it off. The case is coming off really well, the best I have ever made in fact.

Either tomorrow or Thursday I will be installing the button sections and then can make a start with the wiring.

 

Time for some modding work, so put on some "music while I work". Motorhead is good, or AC/DC I find too. Anyway, I digress!

Fucked up a bit when putting on the layer of varnish onto the case last night, put it on too thickly and the mini paint roller had too much varnish on it so it didn't wipe off the case evenly. Ended up using a sponge and quite warm water to wash it off before repainting to get the surface lovely again. Need to put on one more paint layer to make it all even, then will apply the varnish again. Put project back a few days however not an issue, can crack on with preparing the cable and internal boards in the meantime.

Here is what it looks like at the moment:

The holes have a little paint lodged in the perfectly cut holes, which i'll also have to smooth out.

UPDATE - great stuff - the paint was fully dry after 4 hours, so then applied the varnish and all came out great. The casing is finished preparation work now, just need to wait for it to dry, will leave it a couple of days.

Made good progress getting the contact boards ready to install, hoping to show photos tomorrow.

Anyone who is interested, for the paint I am using Crown wall paint, called "Little Black Dress" and for the varnish, Ronseal diamond hard satin finish interior clear varnish.

Had time as was quiet at work again today so got the reference sections on my website pretty much done.

 

This looks really good! I hope you don't mind me saying, but it's much better than your first attempt of a controller for this project

Those cutouts are really well done. I have very little Dremel experience myself, so I couldn't do them half as good.

EDIT: Judas Priest is great music too, for projects like these

 

Thanks.

I agree totally, the previous controller for this project was not great, had too many compromises - the finish on the case, the joystick housing not perfect, feel of a PS2 type controller generally, the PS2 type shoulder buttons, friction of the paint when holding the case. I originally thought it was fine but then after using it, realised it wasn't so decided to scrap the design and make this one instead. I am pleased I did, this controller is miles better. Thanks for the likey too BTW!