Should I pay attention when choosing Flash roms for a sfc flash cart? EDIT : apart of the timings of course.
Should: - have <=120ns access time - Run off +5V - Be 8-bit or have a 8-bit mode - Come in a package you can handle
The biggest one I could find in a DIP package is the AT49F040 (512KB) Datasheet here http://www.atmel.com/atmel/acrobat/doc0998.pdf It's a 32 pin DIP package so it should be easy to handle. If you want bigger sizes, you'll have to use surface mount parts, TSOP-48 specifically. Not bad if you have the right tools and a bit of knowledge.
I couldn't find a datasheet for your chip, but I'm guessing it's probably TSOP surface-mount and most likely arranged in 16-bit chunks. Oh, and you'll have to use an LM317T to give the chip 3.3v. There's a good chance it's serial too, in which case you can forget about using it altogether Just keep reading, that's all I do. Read, read, read
But it runs at 3.3V, it's 16-bit wide so you'd be wasting half of it in 8-bit mode (unless you jumpered it to allow two banks, but that's kinda pointless) and it's a 54-pin TSOP, which is a right arse to solder. Other than that it'd do fine :lol: http://www.intel.com/design/flcomp/datashts/290667.htm Stone
A 317T is quite overkill, you can get fixed 3.3V regs that are cheaper and don't have such a crazy current rating... Also don't forget you'd probably have to level-shift all the inputs - the chip could probably make the SNES switch reasonably well at 3.3V but the 5V inputs (address lines, /CE etc) would damage the flash chip. Forgot about this myself yesterday and had to redesign a fairly large schematic :katamari: Stone
Uhm thanks for your replies, now..on to the next one : did some of you ever tried desoldering? maybe with an air pistol?
Best/easiest way to desolder is with some solder wick (pick some up from your local electronics place). Put some flux on the component leads, put the solderwick over the top of the joint and then push the soldering iron over the top (so it presses down and applies heat through the wick to the joint). The flux should smoke a little bit and the solder will get drawn into the wick by capilliary action. Cut the end off the wick and repeat Stone
Is solder wick also referred to as desoldering braid? Or other such terms? It sounds like the point of it is to try to absorb the solder into something while you have it liquified, opposed to trying to scrap it off or other crude methods. If only I had an EPROM programmer, then I'd have more reasons to play with the soldering iron.
Yes, it does work on SMD parts. In fact it's extremely helpful when you're soldering to them too - one common method is to use huge amounts of solder and attach all the legs together, then remove the excess with braid Stone
