Best type of paint for painting consoles?

I'm starting up a business in modifications and repairs, but one thing I want to do is sell uniquely painted consoles to people. It would be a fun thing to do in my spare time. Here is an example of a fully painted Nintendo Entertainment System.



Obviously it has been waxed at the end. I want to begin doing these kinds of things across the board for all consoles but I don't know what to begin with in terms of paints. My starting thoughts would be to take the console apart and use Krylon (black) spray paint for plastic to make the entire system black and then paint over it. But I simply have no idea what would be the best type of paint to use in terms of this.

My mind is more biased at the moment towards going for those citadel paints (used to paint Warhammer figurines, if anyone is familiar with these) and using stencils for the logos and such. I find this a very exciting thing but I don't really know what I could use for it.

Do any of you have some suggestions of paint, or ways to get a nice gloss at the end while still maintaining a high level of detail? Obviously with the handheld systems the sweat from people's hands are going to be making the paint come off so I'll need to figure out a way I can make the paint stay on.
Feel free to post any ideas you might have for artistic things I can do with consoles. I'm definitely going to do this a lot with Game Boy Color's and give them frontlights to compliment the special design, I think it will really get people interested.

I'm not really in it to make money, just to have fun, even though it is part of my business.

Post any creations you have, names of paints and places you can recommend to buy them (preferably online, I live in Australia) that would work best doing this kind of work with a broad range of consoles.

Thanks for reading. Hopefully we can brainstorm some ideas, and you guys might get inspired to start doing art of your own.

 

Made a thread not so long ago.
http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?42390-The-art-of-a-new-paint-job-How-to

usually the gloss part is by using a gloss paint or car paint.

 

If you want high gloss then a clear top coat is a must, like anything paint wise prepairation is the key to a good finish.

 

I have a question since there seem to be a lot of experienced painters here. Whats the best method for getting the small lettering just right? Like the power button on a nes.

 

probably just printing a water transfer thing like they used to use on model airplanes, i usually just ignore small lettering and paint over it

 

Print it out, cut it and stencil it on. Affix the stencil, including the islands, using a spray adhesive intended for temporary bonds like 3M spray mount or possibly the elmers stuff. Been my method for years.

 

Everyone uses automotive paints. It confuses me. I tried using automotive paints that my cousin (a mechanic) had spare, and they're OKAY, but I much prefer my regular plastic paints (primarily Tamiya). Granted, they cost more for less, but still, I'd recommend against using automative paints like most everyone actually does. This is coming from someone who isn't particularly good with spray paint but is also a long-time modeller.

Also, if you're going to use decals of any kind, put a layer of glossy top-coat (clear, of course) down before you put the decals on to avoid silvering. If want a flat finish (i.e. you will use a flat top-coat) and you're using a flat top-coat which is quite strong - like Tamiya's are - put a gloss coat over the decals before you put the flat coat on, else it could eat away at the decals. I'm not sure about Testers, but I know Mr. Hobby (Mr. Color, specifically) top-coats don't require this layering over decals - the flat coat is weak enough that it can go straight on without a gloss coat. I'd recommend against Citadel spray paints, primarily for their price - they're some of the most expensive.

Another option for the lettering is to use masking tap on it. It's a royal pain in the ass, though, but it'll preserve the existing text. Depending on how much you layer the paint (try not to spray too much at once, and try to only have a few layers tops, perhaps minus top-coat and primer), you might end up with an indentation, though, so you might not want to do that.

One of my favourite tricks is getting a gorgeous metallic finish. Lay down black, then put silver over the black, then use a translucent colour, and you'll get a metallic finish, because you see silver through the translucent paint which changes the colour. Kinda like coloured translucent plastic with a white LED. You can also use a flat top-coat for a metallic yet non-glossy effect, or just experiment with different top-coats for different finishes.

Oh, and one last thing: primer. It's not necessary, but how necessary it is depends on the colours underneath and whether or not you clean the console first. I recommend giving all the plastic parts a thorough wash in warm, soapy water to get any greases off. At that point, you won't need primer, but you can still use a thin layer of it if you wish. It also depends on what colours you use. I... honestly don't remember the rules, but off the top of my head, I believe it goes like this: if the new colour is lighter than the current one, you should use primer. Typically, grey primer is used, but white primer is used in certain circumstances (I think it's when laying down colours such as yellow or black).

If you look up something like a Gunpla painting guide, you'll find a ton of this info and more. Sure, you're not building models, but it's all plastic, and since Gunpla (Gundam plastic model kits, for anyone who doesn't know) is so common in the modelling scene, you can find all the information you need on painting from those guides alone.

 

Ditch the spray cans and go for a paint gun.. You can even get electric ones

 

Paint... gun? I don't think I've ever heard of one of those.

Unless you mean an airbrush, in which case, those can be really expensive, and they've got a steep learning curve. Once you can use them well, though, the end results are seriously impressive.

That being said, for something this size, I'd argue that spray paint is more efficient. It'll cover it quicker and cost less. Even without the initial price of an airbrush + compressor, you're still looking at paints for airbrushing (some airbrushes even use special paints, or at least special bottles, although I suggest you get a top-loading one that doesn't require this), and those are all small pots that you'll need to buy multiples of.

Besides, airbrushing is better for smaller, more precise details. If you're doing models, then I'd recommend one, but only for game consoles with simple shades of colour? Probably not worth it.

 

Spray paint guns have been around for a long time

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electric...13?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item19f87172c1

Air brush is only good for small stuff but a spray gun can cover a large or small area, just adjust the spray pattern and flow rate..

The most common area these are used is in car body painting but as I said you can easily paint smaller stuff like a console with this, they provide a MUCH better result as it's more controlled.. Also cheaper than buying cans because you can use paint from a tin

 

Krylon Fusion with a coating of gloss. Sand the item beforehand.

 

VHT vinyl dye.

 

Foxbox do you have a more detailed / guide on this method .. I need to visually see something to fully understand it . I'm currently painting a Nes console & really want all the original logos back on . Or anyone else that can help with a link or video . Thanks