Blown ntsc Sega Saturn mod 2 power board. Advice needed

Guys,

I live in a pal region (240v), I bought a USA Sega Saturn model 2 (120v) and a 150w step down converter.

Both arrived today, however poor english instructions for the step down resulted in me making a bad mistake. I blew the power board on the Sega Saturn and the step down. I pulled the cord out of the Saturn straight away but that wasn't enough to save it in time.

When I opened the Saturn, the power supply/board fuse was blown and caps had leaked.

So I screwed up. But I'm hoping I can save this.

Questions:

1. have i damaged the rest of the console? could I simply buy a replacement power board and the console would still work? I've found a website with a NTSC power board part so I'm wondering whether I should buy it and try this again with a new step down converter

2. Does anyone know where I can buy a 4pin model 2 pal power supply?

 

If you are buying a new PSU - why not just get a 240v one and not bother with the step down?

 

I would do that, but I can't find the 240v pal 4pin power board anywhere...

I could find a USA 120v 4pin power board.

I guess also I don't want to spend more money on a pal 240v console, even of its faulty/broken for parts, as they are still expensive

 

Where are you looking?

I buy faulty consoles for like £15 including shipping (and often come with pads/scart leads!)

I might have a spare I can sell you though.

 

Really?? I look on eBay and just google around for stores

If you think you can help me by selling a 4pin power board please let me know

 

btw, if I remember right - pal psu's are all 5 pin, the extra pin isnt used on the NTSC consoles (its only used by the scart connector for changing tv mode)

You can safely use the 5 pin in a 4 pin ntsc console.

 

Ive been reading about that but I'm confused given the limited information on the net...

there are all different form factors for the 240v 5 pin psu, and I'm not sure if the one I eventually find is going to fit

For example, http://gamedoctorhk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1306

It says "longer version"

 

Yes, you need the correct size. But pins doesnt matter as the extra is unused.

If you take a picture of your existing PSU, I will see if I have a matching 240v version spare that is the same form factor.

 

Thanks heaps ok I'll do that, I'll have to do it tomorrow if that's ok?

In the mean time, im wondering if you know where I can find more info/pictures about the different size form factors for these power boards?

 

It looks like I've got the "shorter version" when comparing to images and chip placement

 

think I have one.

Will check when I get home.

 

I have an NTSC model 2 Saturn (the one with round buttons right?) with 4 pin PSU. Interesting thing I learned about this setup. It has 4 pins but only 2 lines to the main PCB. There are 2 ground and 2 VCC lines going into it. It runs off of a single voltage: 5 V DC. If finding the official PSU is too hard, it should be feasible to use a standard high amperage 5 V DC power adapter. Something like the ones used for those high powered USB hubs. I have an adapter that pushes out 2.6 A of 5 V DC. Not sure on the amperage needs of the Saturn but there should be a 240 V AC to 5 V DC high amp transformer somewhere that could be used. I will need some pictures to confirm what I have said is true of the Saturn in question here. I know this is true of mine. Unless my ohm meter was lying to me. The little bastard...

 

Thanks heaps, I'll compare with a photo if you have one to post

Do you think there's a chance I've fried the rest of the console?

 

That sounds awesome, keen to hear more

Anyway please see the photos here
http://s1152.photobucket.com/albums/p499/bboydocument/?action=view¤t=c4ca68c7.jpg&evt=user_media_share

seriously, do you think I've damaged the rest of the console though?

 

Only one way to find out, though the fuse blew which is a very, very good thing.

 

No I don't. The AC current is never mixed into the DC side of the circuit. It is all isolated in the transformer. I don't think the double voltage input will double the output voltage and make it dangerous. Sure it was probably higher than the 5.5-5.7 V the PSU puts out, but I don't think it was high enough to do anything harmful. Best it may have done is warm some of the chips up pretty fast.

I did some testing on my Saturn PSU. Comparing it to the one in the picture shows them to be identical. So I believe you have a 5 V machine. I did a dry test of my PSU and this is what it was putting out: 5.7 V and 4.5 A. If finding a PAL model 2 Saturn PSU is turning up blank, try something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CISCO-LITEO...nectors_RL&hash=item2c67269026#ht_2461wt_1397

I'm not sure if it has enough amperage to support the Saturn at full load, but it is a 220 V AC input item and is cheap.

 

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind!

Will I still be able to use a scart cable if I'm able to source a model 2 5pin 240v psu? Given that this motherboard is a 4pin?

Actually, given that this motherboard is a 4pin I'd assume it's a VA6 motherboard...is this correct?

Thanks so much, really appreciate this

 

x

 

Yeah on a Japanese console, I've still got my similar odd Saturn SCART situation I've mentioned before.

RGB-to-HDMI box treats the cable as composite. RGB-to-component box treats the cable as RGB.
But it's actually perfect sense. Because this CSY2100 style box can't output composite video, it doesn't AFAIK need SCART switching voltage.

Haven't yet tested the US console.

 

Thats not correct.

The 9v signal is only used to make the TV auto switch to the scart input. Without that 9v, you just need to manually change channel.

The RGB mode select is only 1-3v, not 9v.

Only reason the NTSC cables do not work on a PAL console - is because the sync is gotten from Composite sync (which is pin 9 on a NTSC machine) on a PAL machine thats 9v and wont help you get a picture.

A pal scart cable is taking sync from composite video (pin 8) and uses pin 9 just for the auto input switching.


Scart DOESN'T require the switching voltage AT ALL, Its purely so the TV auto changes channel. Converter boxes and TVs do not require it to output a RGB picture.