Use regular lead solder and some brush on flux to get solder to stick to those exposed leads. A bit of 30 gauge kynar wire (wire wrap wire) is perfect for soldering this stuff back to the board. RJ
I'll give it a go, I have heard much hype of Kynar wire, so I'll see how it goes. Picked up some of it on feeBay and a tin of flux
If you get it going again, i'd love to see some pics of the finished job if you don't mind. As i'm sure everyone else would too.
Just use a conductive silver electical tracing pen, such as this: http://www.electronix.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/9249 It's by far the easiest and most reliable type of repair for the type of job you have in mind.
I assume OE is proposing that Ross should draw a line carefully from the exposed leg ends to the motherboard PCB contacts, however I thought the PCB was raised slightly - would that not interfere with it or do you just lay a thicker trail?
It won't unless you can somehow make a new leg with it. Make sure the tin of flux is rosin type and not acid type. You don't want it to eat away at the traces. Acid flux is only used for soldering water pipes and repairing car radiators.
Yeh good point Gavin, I should of added, if there's a gap, Ross needs to fill it with small dob of epoxy glue (Araldite) or car body filler, just to give the conductor summat to hold on to. ...This is merely a suggestion...yeh soldering Kynar is another method, so is using a pen. Beauty of the pen its reversable and doesn't use any heat. ...Of course if Ross could solder he wouldn't be posting this in the first place I guess, hence the 'real world' suggestion
We'll see how it goes, the flux I ordered is from a mobile phone repair merchant on eBay and the label clearly says 'pH neutral' on it, so assuming I'm sent what's pictured, it won't be acidic. I'll test in on some waste PCBs first though to be absolutely sure. I'd be more annoyed if it ate my soldering tip rather than the traces. It's not that I can't solder, it's that this is a bit more difficult than an average soldering job done by hand, but I'm gonna have a shot when the Kynar wire arrives. The epoxy/pen is a great suggestion, thanks for that. The trace pens are £25 from Maplin in the UK, which is not gonna be worthwhile only for this. While we're on the subject, aren't these pens hazardous if breathed in though? I vaguely remember someone saying as much
WOW! A giant £1 coin! h: Yeah, that is a very tight little job. If you are using the silver pen as OE suggests then you can use the edge of a Stanley knife as a ruler to run the pen nib along. Any mistakes can be 'erased' and again, with no heat involved it remains relatively clean and risk free. Alternatively "...lay 3 strands of thin wire out on a work bench, place solder on the ends of them, then once you've spaced them out correctly tape them together. Tape the end you aren't going to solder first. Use electrical tape. Then place the first strand onto the first leg, use the end of a Stanley knife against the edge to the next leg to separate them and avoid any solder making any contact with the next leg along. Use very small amounts of solder and get rid of any excess. (be two people for this bit) Do the same along the line of legs, but move the blade to the side you have just soldered as you progress along the 3 legs. Make sure after you have finished that no solder has joined up anywhere and if necessary score along the middle of them, removing any excess. Remove tape, place it on the soldering you've just done and repeat process on motherboard..." These are the instructions my mate who "used" to insert PS2 mod chips suggested. He'd be able to do it for you, but he'd probably charge (not sure how much) as he's Glasweigan and doesn't believe in favors lol.
Fuck me sideways that's very impressive work. I couldn't solder my dog to a piano. You should see my DIY supergun. Is the messed up 'L' a common fault or the result of a dodgy connection?
