Creating an xbox 360 slim car adapter

i was thinking of making a car adapter for the 360 slim..... but i have no idea what the pinout for the slims power connector..... i would like someone to point out the connections, like the 12v,5v,ground,and power enable

 

I don't know the exact pinout but you will need.

12v
5v
GND (common)
PSU_ON

I recommend buying this to regulate the power comming from the car ->

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-200W...6?pt=AU_Components&hash=item3f224c73ee&_uhb=1

Desolder the ATX connector and wire it up to one of these ->

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AC-Power...o_Game_Accessories&hash=item3ce2654693&_uhb=1


Easiest way I can think of would be,
Get the pinout for connecting a phat 360 to an ATX PSU, crack open the converter and simply wire it directly to the mini ATX
PSU board.

I would put the newly modded atx360 12v PSU in a plastic box (from radioshack), maybe put a small fan on the 5v rail of the PSU so when you turn the 360 on the fan will run and cool the PSU.

with the lead running from the PSU to the car, maybe think of using some thick wire, going off a quick calculation the psu should pull about 13 amps from the battery (160 watts / 12 volts = 13.33 amp load)

Hope this little bit of info helps your mod

 

hmm ill try this out... i had a spare 360 grey power brick that was broken... so i have spare parts... ugh... i need to buy a new soldering iron.... and solder... since all i have is a crappy usb soldering iron...

 

Won't this drain the battery really fast? The Xbox is not mini DVD player that you can slap on to the ceiling of your car.

 

You might not even need the 5volt standby.

Its possible that simply providing the xbox with a regulated +12volt, it will power up

The 5v standby voltage is used to trigger the high current 12volt output, via the console itself.

 

I believe (I could be wrong) the 5VSB is also used to run the 5v rail when the machine is running too (HDD, USB, Probably all the 3.3v stuff too)

You should also get some of those foam pads to put in the DVD drive, so you don't destroy any discs.. Or get a ODE (But that won't save much power, just discs)

 

Yes and No, depends on the car and how the 12V ACC line is set up.

For example: A compressor driven Car refrigerator pulls about 150W full load, or for a more common example, a car fitted with a SUB will usually have an amp 350W and Greater.

In my SUV I have a SLA 650CCA Battery (stock is only a pissy 350-400CCA), Spend the extra and get a bigger better battery if you want, IIRC mine was about $500AUD or 15 US cents lol

Most people that rely on a lot of ACC power (AMPS, Fridges, Winches ect.) usually fit a second battery anyway.

Remember the 360 will pull MAX 160watts, normally it should only pull about 100ish

 

the 5volt stand by is only rated at 1amp, the 12volt is generally 8+ amps depending on the version of the xbox

all the lower rails appear to be regulated internally, and the 5volt standby is just that, a standby voltage not used to power anything.

 

A few days ago I had to figure some of this out. There's a bit of information out there that I was able to scrounge up, but most was either older (original/phat console) information or just plain incomplete.

So here's a little graphic I whipped together.

I found that with +12v constantly applied sometimes it automagically started, but most of the time it would refuse to power on at all...probably as a protection measure of some sort.
On the other hand, if it's getting +5v in standby and the +12v fails to start, it doesn't start up and assumes your power supply is bad (but if you try again immediately and the power kicks, it will boot, which is nice). The S model pictured here still beeped and gave the green light though.

As long as you filter/regulate the 12v coming in from the alternator (and other common precautions like placing an in-line fuse, etc.), you should be able to run a console no problem (like it was stated earlier, no worse than running the cars AC for the most part).

For the 5v I'd probably suggest something like a 12v to 5v transformer, as a vreg will probably not work (when powered anyways) unless you want a poor little 7805 to fry when it gets close to or exceeds 1A (Not fun).

Yes, it was working as pictured, but I have an adapter in the mail so I can just use my old Xenon PSU instead.

PS: I don't know if it's mentioned, just implied, but the graphic is showing the connector exactly as pictured (Tips are Female).

 

You shouldn't supply the 12volt rail directly from the cars battery, and that isn't a regulated 12volts, and could be as high as 15volts, which is likely to break something.

 

have a 12v regulator somewhere?

 

PicoPSU

 

Because you're wanting to run it from a car battery, you need a buck/boost regulator... meaning the regulator can step the voltage down, or up, because your battery voltage is basically the same as the voltage you need.

You may be able to get away with just using a buck regulator, if you only plan to use it with the cars engine running, as then the alternator will keep the voltage above 13.5volts or so.

There aren't many premade, high current, buck/boost, regulator modules available unfortunately.