Dead PSP battery, worth salvaging?

Just to make it clear:

You can't connect a 2k/3k battery to a 1000 because the 1000 requires the 1800ma battery at minimum. To prevent the connection from happening, the battery was made mechanically incompatible. Also made electrically compatible by means of firmware so a stubborn user can't power a old PSP with it. (can't really blame them on this one, just look the video bacteria posted and you will know why lithium-ion battery packs deserve respect. The "bag" type as used on the PSP and on cell phones are a particularly nasty fire hazard )

The slim battery is 1200ma.

2k/30 will work with all legit batteries.

A 1k will work with any bootleg batteries as it has no protections.
2k will only work with fake batteries made after it.
3k won't work with those fake batteries. Of course a google search shows that the battery protection might have been cracked again as there's plenty of offers of fake batteries online.

 

update on my battery: after LED stopped working, I used 1 Mohm resistor to finish draining the batteries since diode requires minimum voltage to conduct while resistor doesn't. I got it down to where my meter couldn't read it (0v)

Then I tried charging it. Overnight, it was stuck at 0% and when I checked the battery, 0v still. I think the little pcb is bad, not the battery. That the little battery PCB isn't outputting anything to charge the battery with.

 

If you discharge a Li-Ion battery to 0%, its dead forever.

This is also part of the protection circuit - charge correctly, never completely discharge.

 

That's the purpose of the circuit. Prevent a full discharge from happening. If you manage to fully discharge a lipo, there's a chance of fire hazard.

 

Which is what I said, other than the fire part.

 

Just to add, on the particular case of the PSP, the charger circuit is part of the PSP, not the battery. The battery PCB does fuel gauge and protection which disconnects the battery when it is drained too much.

 

PSP console can use without a battery. The use of the PSP's official AC adapter / power supply.

 

You can even use a PSP with broken screen, with remotejoy.

 

But lol, having a broken/incomplete system (i.e. broken LCD or dead battery) makes it much less a PlayStation Portable.

 

In a few years even chinese guys will stop making PSP batteries, but that doesn't mean that PSP can't be portable after that.
You can always replace battery pack itself inside PSP battery with something with similar specs, also you can use any 5v 1+ A powerbank battery to run it as if it was on AC power, but in this case it will be better to use more reliable connector.
With broken LCD yeah it's not really a PlayStation Portable anymore, but just a console.

 

If you'll manage to power fat PSP with slim battery it won't explode. It will run fine but will drain much faster, that's all. Fat PSP doesn't use like 10x more power than slim, don't remember exact numbers, but it's not even 2x more. Charging is a different story - pumping more amps than needed can damage battery or make it to go boom (i don't think it will happen though - again, battery specs aren't THAT different)

 

You won't manage to because it's NOT POSSIBLE. There's a handshake between the PSP and the battery and the PSP will refuse to power on from battery if that doesn't happen.

A PSP1000 battery works on any PSP because the newer PSPs are designed to understand the "language" the early battery talks. The earliest PSP model has no means to understand the "language"(protocol) used by newer batteries, which due to current restrictions was purposely made different (incompatible) and that's why it won't ever work.

I mentioned that the circuit inside the battery is there to prevent it from exploding. Not that it explodes when connected to a older PSP.

 

I actually tried wedging the battery from my PSP-3005 into one of my fat PSPs. It will really just refuse to boot with a newer battery inserted. Neither will it charge.

 

I got an after market battery from a store once and It never fully held its charge. In fact I don't even think the batteries chip works correctly with my 2k because it always reports the battery as having a full charge .

 

Pirate batteries have a circuit board with a MCU in them, but the only reason they have the said MCU is to fool the PSP into believing a legitimate battery is connected.

A legitimate battery MCU has more tasks than just announce it's presence to the PSP. Inside the battery there's a thermal diode, a eeprom with the serial number of the battery (and non volatile information about the battery life/charge cycles) a current monitor, a short circuit protection and finally a circuit which allows the MCU to cut the power so the battery does not get 100% drained (that is fatal for LI-PO cells, can either cause permanent damage or cause a fire).

So really, avoid using pirated batteries on your PSP. The worst part of the fake battery isn't really the actual battery but the circuitry it comes with. Made with the cheap of the cheapest, it usually harms more than helps.

So following the idea of the OP, it's actually a good idea try to salvage the circuitry of any official battery you can find. I am interested on trying to understand the stuff on the eeprom of the battery, too.

 

Ill have to tell my local shop about the fact their batteries might be dangerous then cause they may not know D: (love that store though)

 

This video should give you a idea of how dangerous they are.

 

Ooo I like his videos I actually seen this xD

 

A broken PSP can still be used this way: (lol)


That one has bad UMD circuitry and bad screen.

 

Not really - open PSP2k battery case, disconnect Li-Pol pack itself from controller circuit, then connect it to fat battery controller and assemble the case - PSP will boot and work just fine but i don't think that charging it will be a good idea. Also i managed to replace PSP 1k battery with 3.6v 2800mAh battery from some industrial device. Works fine and it seems that controller charges it properly because PSP works much longer than it was with new original battery. But as usual when it comes to lithium batteries - you must know exact specs for both batteries to do something like this - if you'll try to put too much "juice" while charging - BOOM! That battery was exactly the same size and specs as PSP battery except it's 2800mAh so it was fully compatible.