Hi all, The restoration on this poor handheld began with the replacement of the digitizer and the shell which were both pretty beat. The operation went ok (the new shell's quality is pretty crappy), but I ripped the upper screen's flat cable while reassembling the console (it had already been damaged due to the broken hinge). So I bought another upper LCD and replaced it. Everything went ok, the console was fine and booted, but while reassembling the bottom shell I accidentally snapped the power switch. Then I bought a couple of replacement power buttons, desoldered the old one and soldered the new one. Now the DS Lite does not power on, but it charges the battery correctly if plugged to the wall adapter. What I have checked already so far: 1) both fuses are still ok (tested with a multimeter); 2) I read about an inductor named L2 which is the most probable culprit in these cases, the multimeter confirms continuity between the two ends; 3) I also tested continuity between the pins on the power switch (when soldered) switch "off" 4-3-2 1 switch "on" 4 3-2-1 This is the new switch in place This is the original switch This is the new one On a side note, the replacement switches have a different "metal shielding" on the outside so I put the old one over it (see the first photo) and soldered it on the sides (where the original "shielding" was). The shielding has continuity with pins 2, 3 and 4 of the switch. Any ideas anyone? I already have spent quite a bunch of money on repair parts for this poor DS and I'd like to save it! Thank you in advance
Make sure that ribbon cables for both touch/bottom display and top display are properly inserted inside the motherboard. DS will fail to boot if it will detect that one of the displays aren't connected. Does green LED blink once when you try to turn it on?
Thank you for your response! I already tried disconnecting and reconnecting all the cables without any change. No green LED, just the orange LED if I connect the power plug.
I double checked the soldering, reflowing it too. Could you (or anyone else) please check how does a normal switch behave? I mean, is this reading correct? switch "off" 4-3-2 1 switch "on" 4 3-2-1 Also, is the external metal frame there for a reason (I mean, is it "wired")?
