I have just modded my PAL Gamecube with a XenoGC 2 chip from Eurasia - install went well (bit fiddly though) and I have adjusted the POT setting to just below 200. I have a selection of burned Verbatim full size DVR-R game disks that are all playing fine. Just recently though I have found that I am getting a few disk read errors with some images I am finding. One game in particular is giving me nightmares - "Star Soldier" - no matter what speed I burn this image at (I am using ImgBurn software) the game freezes with some sort of read error at around stage 2. I have tried it with and without a memory card (I know some games only like to use a memory card that matches the game disk region) but no luck - has anyone managed to get this game running from backup I wonder...? All my other games still work so I know that it's not the Cube or the Xeno chip over heating. I've also had problems with FIFA Street 2, Star Wars Clone Wars and ATV2 as well as Star Soldier - I have tried both PAL & NTSC images with the same results. Any tips any of you guys may have would be most welcome. Apologies if this has been discussed elsewhere.
Setting my current GC to a POT setting of 302 has improved things some what - I can now get Star Soldier working and although I have encountered numerous "dodgy" images on-line I now have quite a few back up's up and running although it can be hit and miss at times. Open for discussion but I can see that there cant be many people with an interest in GC's at the moment - not the latest gadget I admit
Oh, there are some of us that are still having fun with it . . . http://www.nintendoage.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=7&threadid=68800 (P.S., don't buy QOOB-brand replacement cases, it turns out they are total shite, but the QOOB mod chip is still excellent!) And, although it is not the most active board around, emu_kidid's excellent site has good enthusiast activity - - http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/index.php?sid=8cf2f9bad155b8f1f6909f86b5c2e7bf emu_kidid is the developer of the excellent "Swiss" application for the Gamecube. Interesting that you have had to turn UP the potentiometer on your unit to get it to read! I do have one unit that is VERY picky about what types of DVDs I feed it, and I have often wondered if the laser is TOO strong, and I should soften it up a bit by increasing the potentiometer's resistance. I wonder if it's just more of a sign that a laser is getting ready to burn out or is tired? I have multiple units that work as expected by turning down the potentiometer, and it seems strange to me to have to turn it UP . . . ! -a2a
Thanks for the links - I'll be sure to take a look at those. This GC I am working on had a Pot reading of over 500 when I got it but the casing never looked to have been opened so I am sure it had never been tampered with. I have another cube set at about 199 and that generally behaves itself but when I set this latest one at 199 it didn't want to know... I read that any where above the 150 mark is generally OK and shouldn't do too much damage - how true this is I don't really know.
Yah, I have seen them start "stock, from the factory" anywhere from 700 down to 300. I don't know that much about it, but I suspect each laser is somewhat unique, and there must be a tuning process where they zero in on the best setting. Yes, no lower than 170 is what I have stuck to, as I do not want to burn anything out! -a2a
Your two GC mods are really excellent looking machines - I must track down some of the VHT VINYL DYE for one or two of my front panels and a SNES I have lurking around some where!
It is my understanding that after about 10 minutes of use, the GC laser pot will go up about 10ohms. Maybe that is why you are experiencing this problem on Stage 2? Here is POT tweak guide is where it is mentioned. http://gcisozone.com/tutorial/19/laser-pot-tweak-.html BTW, I have always had really good luck adjusting the pot to about 185.