Little update: Got cut acrylic panels, now I am waiting only for the standoffs to assemble everything. Will post some final-final look pictures in few days. I've completed soldering of first device and it works fine except sync stripper (LM1881). I am looking into this issue right now. Also I found few problems with my own SCART cables . Here's what I tested: 1. NES with NESRGB installed [ok] 2. SNES PAL [ok] 3. SMS [ok] 4. SMD1 [ok], SMD2 (I turned off internal switch LM1881 and used integrated one in SCART->MiniDIN adapter) [ok] 5. PSX, my SCART didn't supplied power on PIN16, when I fixed it it was [ok] 6. PS2 Slim [ok] 7. PS3, CECHA-01 NTSC-J and 160Gb Slim PAL [ok] 8. NGC PAL [ok] 9. JAG, SCART doesn't supply correct voltage, need to fix cable 10. DC, my SCART lead isn't functional at all, I actually never checked it, used VGA all the time Didn't tested WII and Microsoft consoles, don't have SCART leads for them. But they should be fine anyway (currently I am using component cables for them). Also I didn't noticed any picture degradation, tried every console through switch and directly connected to my XRGB - picture quality is the same. Switch takes power from SCART PIN8 and it uses SCART PIN16 for signal detection. Basically if your cables are wired like here, http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/gamescart.htm you shouldn't have any problems. Also I am thinking of removing sync stripper entirely. It looks like only Mega Drive 2 (Genesis 2) needs it, and usually it's more convenient to include it directly into SMD2 SCART lead (which quality SCART cables do), and also as a side effect you will not need to use manual switch in case you'll want to play your SMD2 . And it will save $3 for every switch. Please let me know what you think about it.
5. PSX, my SCART didn't supplied power on PIN16, when I fixed it it was [ok] had that issue. looking forward to seeing the finished product
Interesting.. All of my Saturns didn't required sync stripper. BTW where is your sync stripper located? Is it inside SCART->XRGB-Mini adapter, or you put it inside your SCART cable, or some other way?
also my PAL saturn didn't need a sync stripper at all with the framemeister... it just works with the stock rgb adapter rewired to EU pinout
I'm not using an XRGB, so maybe that's the issue? I'm using a SyncStrike so my setup goes: SCART > SyncStrike > RGB monitor. None of my cables have strippers in them and my consoles are NTSC (using Euro SCART). I can test all my consoles tonight and see which ones need the Sync Stripper. My Genesis 2 and Saturn for sure, but I know there's at least one other.
Thanks for your reply. So from what I see SyncStrike is sync stripper which provides 15kHz VGA output? I found source of LM1881 problem and I am waiting for another voltage regulators to check sync stripping. Besides that I finished case today, first post is updated, check pictures . (looks even better than I've expected)
what about using a rotety switch rather then auto switching or like old early 80's cable boxes push in a button and all the others pop up now why are we even using the retarted hawking SCART connector? why cant people just RGB mod a console/cable cut off the SCART head and use just a wire connection isnt all thats needed is 4 wires RGB and common ground? what about using RCA connectors to wire RGB to the switch and out of the switch a RCA connector to scart with the RCA pins connected to the RGB and common ground lines hell would be great for this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051SLJAG...8&colid=321ETQQW0SNUJ&coliid=I1NTO392EEVDNKif you look at the 5 pin connecter to the left of the VGA in connector you will notice RAW RGB and ground pins
why do we need a worthless hulking connecter when alls thats needed is 4 wires and on top of that VGA is a world wide standard on every flat screen TV LCD/Plasma/LED SCART is limited to Europe/AU
Console rgb cables usually come with scart connectors. Do you really want to take the time, effort, and money to cut them all up to replace the scart end with a smaller connector. It would not save that much space.
And where you will put needed capacitors/resistors for every RGB line, inside console? Also don't forget about stereo audio switching. SCART is not perfect, but it's more or less standardized connection.
lol 1. As stated above, factory RGB cables have Euro-SCART plugs on the end. Why butcher them? 2. LCD/LED/Plasma screens generally don't accept 15kHz video through their VGA ports. 3. If you're using an upscaler like XRGB, or that thing you posted, the VGA would be on the output. This device is to pick which console is routed to the input. 4. 4 wires? Try 7, minimum. Red, Green, Blue, Sync, L Audio, R Audio, Ground. More if the devices are to provide some out-of-band signalling, which SCART has. 5. Rotary switch. Sure. Just point us towards a 7-pole, 8-throw rotary switch that's suitable for AV signals.
cutting the head off and soldering in a simple connector will take all of 5 mins for all 4 wires the sync is common grounda nd most people who AV mod there consoles already have to solder sevrial wires eliminating propitiatory and unnecessary connectors are a good thing nintendo sony xbox sega besides individual wires would make it far simpler to repair should it even be needed let alone replace a wire frays just replace that wire not the whole cable or spend the time to patch the cable should a wire or pin break actuialy the VGA converter has a setting for output of 15,21,31 hkz also i suggested useing buttons much like old cable boxes push a button the others pop up and you DONT need audio for any game most of us modding our retro consoles do the audio out mod anyway most retro consoles do mono so we are also stereo moding its a hulking connector thats not needed 21 pins only 4 are NESSERY oh yah and its a french standard that the lazy euros adopted rather then create a standard or follow along like the us did and offer a choice in midrange high end models what AV input to use
Angelwolf isn't so wrong IMO. A SIL molex connector probably isn't the best choice, especially since it was never a standard interconnect and isn't shielded. The most common RGB interconnect however today is...... component, not SCART. Component inputs are generally expected to be more flexible than SCART, sometimes accepting RGB (ext sync via composite or dedicated) or RGsB, especially in the case of broadcast monitors. Broadcast monitors and high-end workstation CRTs use 75 ohm BNC, but RCA are very easily adaptable into BNC. More recent consoles also only offer component output since component inputs are ED/HD friendly, so it would be transparently upward compatible. In truth most SCART cables in the world should not exist. To my knowledge only a few consoles provide appropriate RGB signals for SCART, but do not also provide YPbPr: MD, Neo Geo, Saturn, PS, French N64, DC It's likely Jaguar outputs TV-ready RGB but I'm not sure. All other console SCARTs, besides the official SMS and SNES SCARTs, which contain crude internal amplifiers, are technically NOT compatible with SCART inputs. This makes many cables no more appropriate than any other wacky made up cable today. What's worse is that many 3rd party SCART cables are placing resistors and capacitors in inappropriate configurations which complicate matters. SCART for consoles has been a total mess since the 3rd party cables starting appearing without any consideration for whether the signals are TV-ready, and modding websites have only further promoted inappropriate SCART connectivity. IMO RGBS over a component + composite hybrid cable would make the most sense for a new standard, especially since some of these cables already exist in the form of "universal" cables with a dozen connectors on them. There is no need for the resistors or capacitors nonsense in the cable because neither will fix the issue of a high-impedance RGB output being loaded by a 75 ohm TV input. If a console outputs high-impedance, high-DC offset RGB such in the case as SMS and SNES, then there are 4 options: -mod the consoles for TV-ready RGB signals -use a passive RCA adapter that inserts large series AC coupling capacitors for consoles that can't handle direct 75 ohm loading (apparently works for SNES at least) -use a broadcast monitor which can disable the 75 ohm loads in which case no capacitors are necessary -insert a "conditioning" video amplifier which can clamp all sorts of RGB signals and has termination which may be disabled. If you throw on some potentiometers it can be used directly with arcade video as well. Here's a multi-solution product idea that would probably please everyone: -a few SCART and/or JP21 inputs -a few RGBS-over-RCA inputs -termination disable switches for arcade, SMS, SNES -optional RGB attenuation for arcade, SMS, SNES -a clamping output amplifier so people can quit inappropriately misusing the obsolete LM1881 -VGA output connector allowing use with flexible monitors/digital TVs. Passive adapter cables are readily available for SCART and BNC broadcast monitors -lastly a component transcoder so just about any TV, anywhere, can use it If the switching method is analog MUX as in the gscartsw project, IMO it MUST have +- 3.3V or better yet 5V supply rails so AC coupled video will never be clipped. Still not sure the gscartsw is single supply or not. It would be kind of ridiculous to pay $20 for 4 MUXes capable of switching HD video only for it to mangle 240p game video without the right biasing.
I have negative power supply on board. But it's used only for audio switching. I've already told you that in one of my previous replies. However I don't fully understand why do I need negative supply for video multiplexers. According to this: Understanding Analog Video Signals - Tutorial - Maxim video is in range 0-1V, no negative there. Also I talked with engineers regarding negative voltage for video multiplexers and I was assured I don't need that. Which is kinda true I think, because I haven't seen any even slight picture degradation during my consoles testing. Can you give me some links to read about it?
Yes the SyncStrike takes a SCART input, strips out the sync signal, breaks out the audio, and outputs 15KHz RGB/VGA via a D-Sub plug (it's not a 31KHz VGA signal though, you'd need a GBS-8220 board for that). I use it because I already had it laying around for use with my GBS board and it provided a nice SCART to D-Sub plug interface as the BNC cable I'm using has a D-Sub style plug (stole it from an old monitor at work). Otherwise I'd need a separate sync stripper and a special SCART to BNC cable made (which I think is how most people do it). http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=37285 I'm not sure if that changes anything or not from your setup. I didn't get a chance to test all my systems last night, I hope I can do it tonight.
