Help fix a N64 Rumble pack

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by Fisher, Dec 12, 2016.

  1. Fisher

    Fisher Member

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    Hi.
    I just got a N64 Rumble Pack as a "gift".
    It's a used part. I could not make it work with any of my joysticks.
    The only games that I have that supposelly support the rumble pack is Starfox and 007 Goden Eye.
    I've already tried to use new batteries and clean the rumble pack and the joystick connectors.
    I also disassembled the rumble pack and took a look at the circuit. Tested the diodes, fuse and transistors and all seemed fine.
    I tried to draw the schematics in ascii art too.
    It's fairly bad done and incomplete, please, feel free to correct any mistakes, add component values or even redraw it on a better way.
    Code:
          
               +---o---o--+           o-->|--o--F1--> Bat +
               |   |  R5  E\  B       |  D1  |
               |  GND  |    |-----|<--o    Motor
               |       o---/ Q1   D2  |      |
              C4       |  C           o------+           VCC
          VCC  |      R4   D7  D6  D5  D4  D3             |
         18| 17| 16| 15| 14| 13| 12| 11| 10|          +---o---o---o---+
         +-----------------------------------+        |   |   |   |   |
         |                                   |       C1  C2  C3   |   +-->Connector pin 15
         |            VDEC-CNT               |        |   |   |   +--->Connector pin 14
         |            Nintendo               |        +---o---+-->Bat -
         |                     C             |            |
         |              9716                 |           GND
         |()                                 |
         +-----------------------------------+            Components:
          1|  2|  3|  4|  5|  6|  7|  8|  9|     R1, R2 = 10K   C1 = 220MFx6v
           |   |/OE|/WE|A14|   D0  D1  D2 GND    R3 = 4K7       C2, C3 = ? (probably 100nf)
     CE1<--o   o-+ o-+ o-+ |                     R4, R5 = 220R  C4 = ?
           |   |   |   |   +--> /CE2             R7 = 3K9       Q1 = AVQ 22 (NPN)
          R3  R2  R1  R7                         D1 =?          D2 = M2W (3pin) 
           |   |   |   |                       
          GND  +---o---+
                   |
                  VCC
    
    
    Any help on this will be welcome.
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. AtomizerZero

    AtomizerZero Intrepid Member

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    Have you checked to make sure power is going through the rumble pack?
     
  3. Fisher

    Fisher Member

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    From battery yes, it's going through the fuse.
    I just need to take a look on the power from the joystick.
    I'll check it out and post the results.
     
  4. Fisher

    Fisher Member

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    Have done the test just now.
    Yes, the Rumble Pack is receiving 3.3v from the N64.
    Can somehow I make a device that tests it?
    It has only A14 line and 8 data lines and the control lines.
    Can someone explain me how this hardware is supposed to work?
    I found some info, but it explains the joystick communication to N64.
    Maybe I did not understand it fully...
     
  5. AtomizerZero

    AtomizerZero Intrepid Member

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    Honestly, I don't know too much about the rumble pack. I know you can desolder one side of the resistor and solder it to one of the pins so that it uses the controller power instead of batteries. Also, I'm sure you probably know this, but, to check if the actual motor works, a simple AA battery to the 2 cables (the red and black wires) makes the motor spin.
     
  6. Fisher

    Fisher Member

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    Yeah, I've put on a 5v PC power supply and it spinned nicely.
    I'll try the internal power mod.
    By the way, the component on many tutorials I saw telling is a resistor is in fact a fuse, I think it's 850ma.
     
  7. AtomizerZero

    AtomizerZero Intrepid Member

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    Last edited: Dec 12, 2016
  8. Fisher

    Fisher Member

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    Great!! I gotta try to build this circuit to test and post the results!!
    Many thanks!!
     
  9. derekb

    derekb Well Known Member

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    I believe when I did it that I went the route of just desoldering the existing component and moving it to the appropriate solder points
     
sonicdude10
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