Hello, I'll soon have my "new" Naomi system shipped. Since I found the MB only + Sega I/O rev. 1A I'm unsure about wiring. My idea is: - ATX PSU wired to Naomi (3.3, 5 and 12 lines) - VGA directly from Naomi to Monitor (31Khz) - Sega I/O with USB cable to Naomi My question is: need to power the I/O module too or will it be powered from jamma connector (supergun in my case)? Many thanks, theJKL
There is a 6 pin power connector on the Sega I/O (Rev B). Or You can power it through the Jamma via the Supergun but not both at the same time... http://s237.photobucket.com/user/maxchainsplendid/media/Naomi/JammaIORevB.jpg.html
Many many thanks beharius!! So basically with my supergun (powered by atx PSU) I have two different powered units (Naomi MB + Sega I/O) interconnected only with USB cable right (since A/V will come directly from mobo to monitor)? All I have to do is power Naomi board with right voltages (similar to DC). As for stick & buttons that should not so hard. Comparing to the picture you posted my I/O is slightly different, I think that is a Sega I/O rev 1B, I have rev. 1A (http://jvspac.kirurg.org/img/io-838-13683-02.jpg). But I think your wiring suggestion is valid for both isn't it? As for netDimm I have just to insert it, is it right? No power no cables no hassles there, right? Many thanks. theJKL Just to be sure: in this picture (http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x162/Bibliophile007/IMG_1232.jpg) the wiring is apparently *wrong*, as first 6 jamma contacts appear to be wired as well as 6 pin connector. Am I right?
No need to feed it from both inputs. Only jamma or 6pin is enough, not both at the same time.<br>I think the pinout is standard, you can check it with a multimeter. This is the same connector used on the GDROM too.<br>Netdimm needs to be inserted to the Naomi and an ethernet cable to the PC/router/etc.
You have the exact same JVS to Jamma I/O board that I use. If playing 6 button games 5 of the buttons come off of jamma (button 5 comes from the 5th jamma controller pin, which most harnesses do not have wired) and the 6th comes off of that larger pin header on the left of the board (assuming the jamma connector is down). That one took me a bit to figure out. With Naomi be careful of your voltages, if you provide too much on the +5v rail and you are using anything in the cartridge slot it is very easy to fry your game cart of dim by providing too much voltage. I prefer using the official sun power supply that came with my Naomi 2 since ATX power supplies do not have adjustable voltage.
I cleaned the board with compressed air. I soldered ATX connector to MB, I have 12,2 - 5,15 - 3,23 volts. I re-painted the plastic case, changed the system fan with fan controller to adjust speed as well as noise, wired the JVS adapter by powering it by jamma side. Was able to turn it on and insert credit with some wire... because controller section is still on the way. So games are booting, I can watch beautiful rolling demos, but for the moment... this is it. Many thanks to you all for your help. Btw... original system fan was VERY noisy because of dust, it was surely damaged. The new one, running at full 12v, is noisy too (but "normally" noisy, not "cranking" like that one)... but even if I adjust the rotation half the way (the noise becomes at dreamcast's level) I can clearly feel the airflow with my hand, and it's absolutely fresh. Since my board will play "console-like", not in a cab, do you think I need anyway the full fan speed?
I would say as far as the fan goes, run a graphically demanding game, if you get artifacts or any glitches then you know it needs to be cooler, but if it runs fine then you have no problems at all. The thing to remember is, these systems and their cooling systems were made to run in a closed arcade cabinet so they do not need to be kept as cool when out in the open. An example I can give is I have a Sega Model 2 with Fighting Vipers, the game runs fine without the cooling fan since its not in a closed cabinet. (Naomi probably needs some cooling, never experimented with mine). Just wondering, what kind of controllers do you plan to use? What game(s) do you have/plan on getting? When you say some games are booting, are some games not?
I have powerstone and crazy taxi and both are running well. I have long work to do with controls, before I think other games...
Power Stone will be pretty easy as all it requires are the 4 directions and a few buttons. Crazy Taxi will require a wheel and some analog inputs. Not sure if it requires a Sega JVS I/O Type 1 board like Initial D on Naomi 2 does (That game won't even boot without it). On a side note, if you are running a Japanese bios, you can wire a Dreamcast Controller/Extension cable to CN6/CN7 and use that for control in Power Stone. It will not work on USA Bios.
Crazy taxy is booting, but i have to build controls from scratch.... I knew some games can be controlled with DC pads... But I am running export BIOS.. A bit worried about 5v voltage... Do you think my 5.15v are harmful?
That's why a proper arcade PSU should be used, with adjustable +5V. You'd usually stick within a 10% tolerance, though - so you should be fine. You'd probably see issues if it were out of spec.
Yes I know, bit I wasn't able to find where I could get an arcade PSU with 3.3v rail. As for original Naomi PSU, since I live in Europe I would need a stepdown converter from 230 to 110v... Sorry if I'm bothering you, 1 more question. About the supercapacitor located near the battery... Is really a need to change / remove it? How can be possible that the board works flawlessy without a component?
I've merged several of your posts - please use the edit button instead of double posting. You don't take the capacitor out, you replace it with a new one.
I heard it too, but I can't figure out how could it be possible. Think I'll search for a replacement. Part number is EECS0HD104H. @ retro: sorry for that. I'll pay attention.
