How to store/digitaly archive CDs/DVDs ?

I´ve always been wondering whats the best way to store CDs/DVDs to achieve the best conditions for them to survive as long as possible?

AND whats the best method to archive the data from the discs? (e.g. which kind of image is the best, which programm is the best.....)

 

For storage I think it's best to keep them in their jewel case. To protect the cases from scuffs you can enclose it in some kind of plastic, but it's probably best to not have it airtight. Then store those in a cool, dry place. Sun light is OK/even good as long as it's not direct.

As for archiving it depends on the disc.

For audio CDs it's best to use EAC/alternative with a calibrated drive offset, rip and verify your tracks against the AccurateRip database, (losslessly) compress the tracks if you wish, then build or download a cuesheet. There are tutorials on this somewhere.. I use FLAC for my lossless tracks, it's the most popular algorithm.

Console CDs can be really complicated if they have multiple tracks. It can require using multiple programs (EAC to read out the audio and another program to read/verify the data) and then splicing together an image. Redump.org should have a tutorial on it. The best storage format is a cuesheet w/ each track in a separate binary file IMO. Any audio tracks can be compressed individually. For binary I store them in 2352 bytes / sector and use the .iso extension, but using .bin is also acceptable. If the data track is verified as good (all subdata checks out), I think it's OK to strip the image to 2048 bytes / sector for mode 1 data so it will compress better.

For DVDs you can use almost any program to make an accurate image. As long as all sectors are readable it's OK to store tracks in a plain 2048 bytes a sector binary image (commonly .iso). If all sectors aren't readable it's pointless to make an image. I don't think there is a way to rip raw DVD data with subcode, but fortunately it's not necessary.

Once you make a disc image of a console game you can generate the checksum with various tools then try to verify it with someone/a database like redump.org. For CD games with many tracks it's best to verify each individual track's checksum.

 

Just to second the above - EAC for audio (do read a tutorial so you know what you're doing first, though), and any modern image making app for DVD (I use Alcohol 120%).

 

Or you could use CloneCD and not have to worry about anything!

As for storing CDs, you want to keep them away from direct sunlight, but away from light is even better. They don't like extremes of temperature, especially heat. CD-Rs won't like too much humidity. They don't like extreme fluctuations in temperature and/or humidity, either - so try to keep them fairly consistent. And of course, keep away from dust and other contaminants. Including fingerprints on the surface.

The best way to store them is in their original plastic cases in a cool, dark and dry environment. Oh, and like video tape, keep them upright! Keeping them in a sealed container will help keep the environment constant. To keep artwork (and the CD) best preserved, use acid-free storage solutions. You can actually get acid-free plastic sleeves for CDs, much like those for records or comics.

For video tape, you should keep them at around 20-30% humidity and less than 20 degrees Celcius - preferably around 5 degrees.

Here are a few references that support my theories:

http://www.clir.org/pubs/reports/pub121/contents.html

http://www.suttonelms.org.uk/articles9.html

http://eil.com/explore/guide/cd_storing.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Optical_media_preservation

And an alarming report:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/click_online/8711747.stm

 

CloneCD doesn't rip CDs last I checked. EAC is a dedicated tool and will do a better job than CloneCD either way.

 

In most cases I don't think airtight is good because it can lead to condensation beyond your control. Same for lack of light and mold. You better be sure everything is sterile before you seal it off. As for the condensation you'd have to vacuum out the air XD

 

Vacuum seal then backfill with argon or another inert gas. Works for lightbulbs.

 

What?! CloneCD makes a 1:1 copy of CDs, of course it does! The clue is in the name! Who wants to rip anything when you can make a perfect copy? I've used CloneCD to do all sorts of audio and multimedia CDs, including games with subchannel data and those protected Sony CDs.

No, not completely airtight, but in an acid-free bag. The same way comic books have been stored by collectors for decades - and comics don't like moisture, either! It is recommended to "air" the comics every few years and change the bags, of course. You'll find that the big collectors' record stores (e.g. Esprit, whom I quoted) use such bags for their CDs.

Then again, what would I know? I've only been collecting such things for the past 25 years! I guess I'm just lucky that my collection, stored in such a manner, is in perfect condition?

 

With all respect mate you need to go and read about EAC, then we can have this discussion. Long and short of it: lossless compression + log + cue makes much more sense than an iso when you're storing (or playing back) audio CDs.

 

Nothing was said about a file that you could play from. When it comes to archiving, I'll stick with my 1:1 copy, thanks.

Of course I know about EAC. You forget that I'm a sound engineer. Why would I want two programs when I could have one that does the same job? And far easier, too.

Also, the OP said data... which to me implies that he's talking about data CDs, and maybe audio... but definitely data. My answer is still CloneCD - does both. EAC won't rip my copy of Office!

 

We're not talking about two applications that do the same job. One application makes an identical copy of an audio CD, the other does the same but uses roughly half the storage. Your choice, but I'll go for the latter.

Not sure why you'd bring copies of Office into the debate, different tools for different different purposes - obviously CloneCD would be appropriate for that.

 

Of course, any tool is personal preference, really!

Why did I bring Office into the debate? Well, tell me where in the OP it says AUDIO compact disc. That's right - it doesn't!

THAT is the debate.

Say a disc contains Office - perfectly relevant. I don't want to reinstall my computer, only to find my Office CD doesn't work any more. So I back it up. Or a beta disc, my games collection etc.

Your answer, technically, didn't mention what to use for those. You said DVD. Whilst that could mean data or video, I assume you meant the video format. Therefore, you didn't mention how to back up a PS2 game or my precious Office disc ;-) lol

I would argue that it isn't technically an identical copy with EAC, seeing how it rips to certain formats in the process. Sure, the difference is probably not perceivable, but it's still not EXACT ;-)

 

It rips to lossless formats, detects gaps, and compares to known checksums on an online database. It is as "exact" as making an image - that's the whole point of the program, it's what the E in EAC means.

 

CloneCD doesn't compensate for the drive like EAC does in "raw" mode, so more likely than not any image with audio tracks or non-verifiable data tracks won't be perfect. I don't think any program can rip the gaps 100% due to drive firmware (also prevents better rips through overreading).

 

thanks for all the tips, BTW Im especially talking about Pre-Release software/Retail games on DVD´s

 

Regarding the physical side.

Has anyone tried anything like d-skins or whatever they are? They are like a thin layer of plastic which allegedly protect the readable areas from scratchs etc but still allow the disc to be readable when worn in your drive.

I'm just wondering if these will be any good but more importantly will they block out enough UV to help dyes etc in writeables live a little longer?

If you have a dark case it's probably pointless but if you open the case and the bugger drops, at least you have some protection and for the seconds the disc spends between the case and the drive could save it an insignificant amount of life for the future

BTW don't store your discs flat the gravity on the perimeter will warp the disc over time, hence store them upright as other people may have mentioned and keep them out of direct, or ven indirect sunlight as much as reasonably possible

 

Anyone know why sometimes when I rip a CD-ROM with ImgBurn it will result in a .ISO file and not a Bin/Cue file?

I thought all CD's were Bin/Cue and DVD's were ISO's? Am I wrong?

It does this with some of my CD's, but not others, why? Is there some setting I'm missing as I usually just click the "Write to File" Icon and let it do its thing.

Or is it because that particular CD does not contain any CD Audio Tracks, just Data, so it just rips it into a .ISO file which can then be burned onto a CD later on if needed?

I haven't tried any other ripping programs though. Which other ones are the best to use? Thanks.

 

For the software side of things I've always liked Redump.org. They use IsoBuster + EAC or Perfectrip + REAL Plextor. Not the easiest methods but they are about as close to 1:1 as you can get.
http://wiki.redump.org/index.php?title=Dumping-Guides

As far as clonecd goes it does some things really well. But also from what I've seen it seems to just guess on some things and call it good. (Having compared it to the methods above.) So I only use Clonecd if I need a quick method and I want the resulting image to be in one or two files.

@pcc10 IF I remember correctly .ISO is incapable of storing audio tracks. So that might be why it seems to be switching back and forth.