I just bought a Vogatek Mk V supergun off of ebay after reading lots of praise for the line, but I have a few questions. This is my first true supergun, so I'm not sure what sort of power I should be supplying to it. Would a 200W PSU be too much? I ordered a Primal Rage PCB to test the unit out with. Second, I've heard going directly from the audio jack on the vogatek line to a TV or high end speakers is a bad idea. Is this true? And if so, why? Third, how would I go about adding support for CPS-2 or Mortal Kombat style 6-button setups on my joypad? I know those are 2 separate types of kick harnesses for those specific types of games, but I notice the controller ports on the supergun only support neo geo style controllers, i.e. 4 buttons. Would the easiest method be to just route the kick harness directly to some extra buttons? Thanks for any advice in advance.
Lucky, nice. No such thing as too much psu really, if you pick to small a psu it will be working hard all the time. Drawing 35W out of a 250 or so will get you the optimal efficiency of the psu 70-80% and reduce heat, dc sag, etc.
It's a bad idea to put that into your TV because the audio isn't line level, it's already amplified. External (passive) speakers should be fine assuming they're of a suitable impedance. Edit: should point out I'm not much of an arcade buff and don't know the particulars of the Vogatek supergun you're talking about (might be that it filters the JAMMA board's audio down to line level, I don't know), so you'd want to check for yourself.
Ok, the vogatek mk V arrived and it seems like it works except for one problem. On the primal rage PCB, all the colors are screwed up. The ST-V hasn't arrived yet so I don't know if it's a problem with the board, but everything else seems to work. I'm connecting to a modern TV using either RCA video out or s-video out, as provided by the board. Is this a problem with going from RGB to NTSC on the mk v, or is there some obvious solution I'm missing? What's the difference between "sync accurate" and "sync correct" setting on the vogatek mk v? changing the setting seems to have no affect.
Ok, so playing with the RGB pots a bit, I think I've narrowed down the problem. first, let me describe what is happening in more detail - the colors are all screwed up in weird ways. Namely, things which should be red often appear either bright green or blue depending on the pots settings. I notice that, however, if I fine tune the G pot in a very specific way - i.e. at an extremely specific value - the colors correct, although the picture appears very, very washed out. When I say very specific, I mean it - a slight millimeter to the left or right and the colors screw up again. It's ONLY the green pot which affects whether the colors are displayed correctly or not, the R and B pots seem to work as intended. Sooo... I'm guessing this board has a defect in it's RGB -> NTSC encoder? I'm looking for the fastest, easiest way to fix this. I already have a jamma harness extender in the mail, would it be wise to simply order a JROK rgb->ntsc encoder, then snip the R, B, and B wires on the harness extender and bypass the vogatek mk V, and instead send the video directly to the JROK encoder? Or is it possible to fix my vogatek directly? Would simply replacing the G pot fix this problem, or does the error sound like something more?
The sync signal confuses the colour encoder, you should be able to fix it by buying the Jrok Sync Cleaner (should be about $15), however wiring it up will require you to cut and sync input, wire it to the sync cleaner and wire it back into the vogatek, you will also hav to solder other wires to your Vogatek, so not for the faint of heart. http://www.gatorcade.com/ sell them. If you adjust the volume down to a minimum on all your boards and then hook it up to a TV then it will work, the damage can be caused by overdriving it. Although wire a 100uf cap between the audio out and the TV to filter out the DC voltage that may be present.
If you are new to using arcade boards I wouldn't make any adjustments until you have more boards to test. You shouldn't assume there isn't a problem with the board you are trying to play when it is your only one. I had color problems with a CPS2 board that would change by fiddling with the JAMMA connector. Solving this properly was just a matter of cleaning the JAMMA edge connector.
If you're going to use a JROK, you might as well have just built the thing yourself. Vogateks have a notoriously bad rep amongst hardcore arcade people - and AFAIK they were only really built for the UK market (i.e. RGB SCART).
