Modbo on PS2 V4 GH-013

So I just got my modbo and I noticed that once everything was taken apart I had a different board, and I'm not really sure to go from here I tired doing some searching to see if anyone else might have come across this board before and tired to add the modbo, but it seems I wasn't able to find anything.

If anyone might know where to find the right information or point me in the right direction that would be nice!

Going to update this for anyone who in the future has any issues with a No Gap Bios ps2 if you follow the links that Zer0 has given then you will be able to get it running and make sure you include all points.

 

I was looking just now and i assume you got the no gap version of v4. was taking a look at a matrix infinity diagram (Pretty much the same). Use this diagram for all the points except for B,G,H,A,I. http://www.neoasic.com/dia-infinity-v4n.php.
Then use this one B,G,H,A,I and CX http://www.xchip.cn/install/modbo4.0/V4.jpg

 

CX appears to not be on my board from what it looks like, but it does seem I have the no gap motherboard like in the picture.

Everything else traces out however.

However after looking around at other stuff I noticed that in the V3-8 my chip where the CX is laid out the same IE second prong over and it's not tied into a resistor, but just two soldered ends.

 

If you can, take a pic of where you think the point "cx" is and post it. I should be able to tell you for sure from there.

I might of misunderstood but by two soldered ends you mean just already tinned pads?, thats normal for the "CX" point... it looks like a resistor was there but really there isnt.

 

A picture would help and after doing some googling there are different positions for the CX point:
http://www.elotrolado.net/hilo_modbo-750-en-v4-placa-gh-013_1659510
^this is a PAL GH-013 and the install diagram is for a Modbo 750. Not sure I'd want to recommend using that point until after you can confirm what region your PS2 is from and posting a picture of the area (if possible).

IIRC CX is for an external clock signal to be piped into the modchip so they didn't have to include a crystal on the modchip itself saving them a whole quarter. If this is the case it might be possible to simply fit a crystal onto the chip but if the chip uses this signal to synchronize itself to do its job then this may very well be fruitless.

 

Mine is a NTSC, but the picture APE posted is the exact same layout as mine however. So I think that is the correct placement. It looks like there was a resistor there, but it's not there however there are two small solder points.

 

Give it a shot and see if it works. Maybe it was an oddball refurb or something.

 

One last question I hope, but I'm trying to find another option for g because the legs on that chip are insanely small I do have the 30 gauge wire however it seems likely I will create a connection between the two is G necessary or maybe another point or am I just going to have to bite the bullet?

 

Im afraid your going to have to bite the bullet. Remember Just tin the wire and if you got some paste flux around dip the wire into paste flux, Dont try to add solder to the legs (Tin the legs). Remember to keep your tip clean from any excess solder and take your time with it.

Try to solder the wire to the leg like how jinn does it here.
*Im borrowing your picture jinn if you dont mind*

 

did you ever get this to work ?

i've attempted to install a modbo 4 on a several V4's before and despite tons of google and diagrams gone through, i always failed. Im also rather confident on my soldering since these are the only ps2 chips i've ever soldered that do not work.
after installing 3 of these chips on later models of ps2 and they all worked i just ended up telling myself they're not compatible and used matrixes instead. I'd really like to know what you did if you got yours working

 

Well It's not working correctly I got everything back together and all I get is Matrix on the screen won't go past that it's getting pretty late so I might check my connections tomorrow.

 

If its just displaying the matrix screen, you need to decrease the "Pad Detection time" to 2, hold Circle+Triangle on boot-up, and change the setting.

I dont generally recommend using modbo chips on pal V1-V6 they tend to have poor boot rate,red screen just before the PS2 logo, Black screens etc, but do sometimes work.

V3-V7 I highly recommend any of the chips powered with Magic-Ice code, like the H2O, it just works perfectly every time.

PS I only saw this thread now would have responded sooner

Edit: Pad detection time was a problem on V7 and below consoles only, so I presume you mean the V4 you did, if its higher, you need to check your soldering.

 

Well that didn't seem to do that trick so I might have a loose connection someone or ruined it one of the two lol.

 

It has happened to me as well with some of first run installs. It sounds like the cd/dvd controller points are bridged/shorted (G,H,I,B,A,Y).

Heres a little check list to try to see if we can get the ps2 running again.

1. Cover the top of the chip with some electrical tape preferably colored (black attracts heat, It could be shorting against the metal shielding).
2. Resolder the Ground and the v3.3. (This could be the problem as well)
3. Check for bridging/shorts with a multimeter (It might be that "G" point).

 

I covered it and still no go so that isn't it. When soldering G I got a little extra down there and had to use some paste to get it off but I did test everything, and it didn't have any connections. I did however use different points then on the chip for my I. B. H, A I actually didn't use the recommend ones, but the ones that were listed on digram APE listed although I don't see why they wouldn't still work they are the same pins just further away I checked my connections and there is a circuit between them. I didn't however use a thicker wire for my ground or my 3.3. I used 30ga for everything. If I remove the power will it revert the system back to original set up? I want to make sure it even works without the modbo before I go any further I'm a little worried I botched something. As well I bend the CD/DVD ribbon a little I''m kinda worried that could be an issue as well. And the power button connection the blue thing off the back came off so I just wrapped tape around it, but one of the little connections bends back so I figured out a way to get it in right, but it's a pain. So I will have to cross check stuff tomorrow. Not really in the mood to go fishing as of right now.

 

I really think its the wire your using for 3.3v and ground. If all you have is 30awg just double it up and if you can triple for the ground. Yes it will go back to stock boot up if you remove the 3.3v. The CD/DVD ribbon cable shouldn't be the issue with it not booting up properly. Im not sure if the Power/reset ribbon cable could be causing it but if all fails and you want to give it one last whirl at it, try replacing it.

 

On a NTSC U/C console ranging from GH-004 up to GH-022 you're supposed to connect only A, B and I.

GH-023 or newer will require all wires. Due to differences on patch data per region NTSC-J and PAL consoles may require more wires to be installed.

 

So I don't even need G............................................................. which G actually might be the reason my ps2 is dead now. I think I honestly messed up that connections around that chip with either solder or I was trying to cut some of it away.

Well I think I really messed up something because I disconnected both the ground and the power and my ps2 boots up, but nothing happens on the screen it's just black.

 

The PS2 needs the Mechacon chip to boot. It's BIOS is halting boot since the DVD drive is now malfunctioning due to the damage induced.

Edit: Please post pictures of the damage so I can try to offer advice.

 

Okay so I disconnected my 3.3 and ground replaced them with larger ones, and I made sure all the solder connections were correct removed my G and H and I'm getting the matrix logo and it then goes to the normal ps2 screen, I wasn't getting the modbo menu well I had it in controller 2 because it was upset down and now it's working correctly. I think my issue was a bad solder connection first, but then I couldn't get it to start up correctly because I forgot to plug in that green connection by the smaller copper ribbon. Once I figured that out made sure no solder connections were bad, and resolder it with the bigger wire removing my G and H boom! it working thanks oliveria! And it would be nice to tell people from now on the G and H are not needed because G is a total pain in the ass!