N64 - NTSC Japanese RGB modded.

Hi. I recently bought a Japanese N64 thats been RGB modded as seen in this link: http://baku.homeunix.net/RGB/Nintendo64/Nintendo64.html

Now, the guy said I should get a Japanese SNES RGB21 Cable for the console. I've looked on ebay and they're just too expensive or unofficial (are they still any good??).

I've got 5 different scart cables and most produce the same problems:

Official Pal Gamecube RGB cable - Crosshatching and minor interference (using F-Zero X, you can see it on the "select race" screen)
An RGB cable that i've had the most luck with buzzes when the screen is white/bright, and also has crosshatching but doesn't have any visual interference otherwise. Sometimes, the cable makes the N64 look really good.

The other cables all produce roughly the same problem as the Official Pal Gamecube RGB Cable.

I'm plugging this Cable into a Toshiba LCD TV (I know its not ideal, but my NTSC RGB SNES using Official Gamecube RGB Cable looks great!).

I also bought a Sync Strike and a VGA/CGA upscaler from ebay. I've tried using these on my PC Monitor (BENQ XL2410T) and my TV. I'm guessing I need something else or a different scart cable or something because it just looks horrid no matter what I try haha.

So yeh, any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Have you tried using a cable that uses composite sync as sync instead of composite video? Using composite video for sync on the N64 will create some crosshatching.

 

I don't think any of my cables have composite sync connected unfortunately. One thing I do have is a s-video cable which had a composite lead attached. I removed it from the multiav pin, so it only had s-video connected and that produced crosshatching. Output looked good though! but the pattern is really distracting.. it was VERY "potent" on s-video. I saw a cable on ebay but they wont ship to the UK :/ perhaps I can make my own??

 

Check the cables for a sync stripper. If they don't have one put it in. That will get the composite sync pulled from the composite video and most likely solve a lot of the problems. I suggest putting the sync stripper in the N64 itself.

 

Sync stripper doesnt fix it. You need to take sync from csync or luma.

Also, if you are going to solder a sync stripper into the console, why not just cut the trace and solder a wire instead?

 

I'm guessing this would work for sure, right? I tried doing this to a USA console that I built an RGB Amp into (the THS7313 ?). I had the same crosshatching happen then, so I cut the trace on pin9 and joined pin 7 to 9. I did something wrong somewhere though, because I cant get any output from the USA N64 at all now... but yeh, i'll look into that one another day. For right now, I'm hesitant to doing anything that might kill my Japanese console... but if its the only way (no other choices? a different cable perhaps??) then i'll do it. But i'll need 100% assurance that it'll work hahaha

 

Its worked on all consoles I have rgb modded.

 

Ok, so I just finished doing it. I cut the trace on pin9 (marked V) and tested with multimeter between the test pad and the pin - cut successfully. I then thought i'd better test it to make sure it actually is cut for sure. Got no output from any cables (including standard composite) as expected. Good. Then I joined pin 7 (marked Y) to pin 9 (marked V). So, I plugged in my cable and...crosshatching is still present unfortunately

 

This scart cable might fix the issue but the seller is not shipping internationally in till January.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Ninte...W-SYNC-cable-cord-US-model-SNES-/200985791128

If this doesn't fix the issue then probably your best alternative is getting a replacement DAC board for your N64 and RGB modding it that way. It generates an actual C-SYNC signal. I am going to making these soon and i think bad might be making some too.

 

Replacement DAC? why would you do that when the console already has an RGB dac from the factory?

Its just a sync problem and well documented on this very forum

 

Try using csync instead

 

I saw this cable before... the listing says that they don't send to UK? Does that mean they do ship to UK normally?

 

Ahh, i was just assuming OP has a CPU-04 board and i thought you can't tap into the C-Sync signal (or something like that) therefore having to use composite video as sync which leads to crosshatching effects.

 

Pretty sure the 04 has csync too, you just need to solder a wire on the DAC though, as its not routed to the multiav

 

That means soldering Pin 3 to Pin 9, correct? If that's the case, then I just did that and I only get output on the s-video cable (with crosshatching still intact). No other cable worked after doing this though. :/

 

If you have a revision 4 board then the C SYNC is there but not connected. It will have to be brought straight from the VDP chip. For revision 3 and earlier the C SYNC should be right there at the AV plug.

 

I doubt I have the skills or the tools to really do that to be honest... Its hard enough soldering the 2 pins with a wire. :/ It's getting late also... Think i'll replace pin 7/pin 9 connectivity and leave it at that so it at least works with a semi good picture (its quite horrid on the svideo cable). I think I might pay someone to do it for me haha. Probably get the USA console fixed at the same time.

 

So, I thought i'd open the console to actually see how the mod was done for sure. Here's a pic. View attachment 8691
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Not the best quality image, but yeh. It's also a NUS-CPU-04 board (that means a Rev 4, right?).

 

It is a revision 4. The number up by the cart slot is how you identify. It goes something like "NUS CPU xx" Whereas xx is replaced with a 2 digit number. I actually have 2 of those NUS CPU 04 N64 consoles. I really need to RGB mod them and get some RGB to component encoders for use on my TV set. Also, C SYNC is pin 14 on the VDC. Look to the right of the red wire. The last pin to the top right of the chip in the picture is pin 13. The next one to the left is pin 14 and that is pure C SYNC signal. Run a wire from that pin to pin 3 on the AV port and use a SNES or Gamecube RGB cable. Pin 3 of the AV port is designated for C SYNC most of the time. Be sure to check it first just in case it has 12 volts running to it. If so then just cut the trace and run the C SYNC there. That should help with crosshatching.

Also, in the picture I see a white wire coming off of pin 12 of the VDC and a black one from the 5 volt regulator. I guess those are for the RGB amp power as the white wire is hooked to a ground on the VDC.

 

Wiring it to pin 3 and using a SNES or GC cable won't help, snes and GC cable use composite video for sync.