So I was playing around with my N64 controller with a multi-meter while it was plugged into the console, and I accidentally bridged 2 points. The N64 lost power and I couldn't get it to come back on. Tried a different PSU and the console works fine. So I probed the 6 points on the PSU and discovered that the 12v pin is only outputting around 10.3v, which im guessing, isn't enough to power the console, hence why it no longer powers on. I've checked the fuses inside the PSU and they seem fine, so does anyone have any ideas how to fix it?
genius mate! It works! Man I would never have guessed that the fuses would just need time to "chill out" lol...
Sure... don't bump a thread until a week has elapsed since the last post As Bad_Ad84 said, the fuse is resettable. Glad you got it sorted!
I know you've said this before, but I'm pretty sure that this is not the case for every revision of the OEM power supply. I have three or four power supplies that I used for testing used consoles and every time I came across a console with shorted 3.3v, testing it "killed" the power supply (and no amount of time fixed it). I've since learned my lesson and open the console to check for shorts before I try to power one up. It would be interesting to catalog the different revisions so we know which power supplies are self resetting and which are not.
There are differences across regions for design and layout, as far as North American and Japanese power supplies I've encountered, they tend to have four fuses. One fuse at the 120/220v line (F1), one fuse adjacent to the switching transistor (F2), and one fuse for the 3.3v (F102) and ā12vā (F101) rails. The F2 fuse is wired to the switching/feedback controller. F2 is screwed onto the heatsink, and F1 is blurry on bottom left:
That, or a further fault developed. Either way, if the PSU doesn't work, it's time to open it up and see what the problem is.
I have a UK PSU that doesn't work. I think I checked the fuse(s) and got continuity. I might have another look at it now.
