Hi there you guys! I have promised a freind of mine to mod his N64. I have done it before with a Japanese model using a amplifer, I build my self. However, this is a PAL unit, and therefore I have a couple of questions regarding the mod. I would need to buy Etims RGB board + adapter right? (Link: http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=209&rn=548&action=show_detail) And then solder the chip as shown in the instructions. I would then need a RGB cable? I plan to purchase one from Retro Gaming Cables, however I am not sure about sync and everything. Would this cable do the job, or do I need a other one? Link: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...ndo-pal-rgb-av-scart-cable-lead-cord-for-sale Thanks! - Mads
Is this the cable I need? Can I use C-sync on a PAL RGB modded N64? https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...ecube-gc-rgb-scart-cable-pal-for-sale-dol-013 Or will the SNES Luma-Sync cable be the one I need (link in first post)? Thanks! - Mads
It is a PAL NUS- CPU (P)- 01. With DENC-NUS video encoder. Serial: NUP10381294. Is there any other more info I should provide?
Removing the anti-aliasing isn't really much of a problem, since the build-in Gameshark in the everdrive can do that. All I really need to know is, what cable I need for best picture. I am no sync expert, and I want to make sure before I order
If I've found the right info, this page suggests the RGB board can be configured to the desired cable type. http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/instructions-new/
The cable depends on you RGB lines: you can either use caps (or even direct wiring works) like in the NTSC SNES RGB cable schematic (J1, J2 and J3 on the modding PCB are left open) or you can use 75ohm pull downs there as like as in the PAL SNES RGB cable schematic (J1, J2 and J3 on the modding PCB has to be closed) Sync line: You can choose to use sync on composite video, luma or csync. With the stock composite video and luma you will observe a slight image shift as the delay between the stock video signal generation and the RGB signal is slightly different. Better you should go for using csync (I prefere #CS75 from the modding board), which has the same delay as the RGB signals. In my setup I have disconnected luma from the MultiAV and connected #CS75 there for three reasons: I never use(d) S-Video. All of my RGB cables have sync on luma (i.e. uses MultiAV pin 7 for syncing). I don't use MultiAV pin 3 for syncing because EU consoles have 12V on pin 3 of the MultiAV and I don't want to harm my TV/Scaler what ever... just because I falsely have connected a 'wrong' cable with another console I want to test Hope that helps
Okay so I should buy this cable then with the build in Csync option: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...ecube-gc-rgb-scart-cable-pal-for-sale-dol-013 And then wire red, green and blue to J1, J2 and J3? And then I should wire the video signal on pin 7 to #CS75 for using the Csync, that the cable is produced to? Thank you! I hope I get it now - Mads
Buy this cable and use Composite Video + Sync (if you can live without composite video outputted from your console) or ask for luma sync (if you still want to retain composite video and remove s-video from your console)! There is no need for the build in video sync separator as you are getting CSYNC from the modding board. With this cable you can left J1-J3 open. These are simple solder jumpers on the modding board. If you buy a cable with composite video: - lift pin 20 from the DENC-NUS or pin 27 from the MAV-NUS - solder #CS75 to pin 9 of the MultiAV If you buy a cable with luma sync: - lift pin 18 from the DENC-NUS or pin 29 from the MAV-NUS - solder #CS75 to pin 7 of the MultiAV (- later PAL N64 doesn't output S-Video where pin7 of the MultiAV is connected to GND. Here you have to cut the trace going to that pin)
Alright awesome! I got it! I am gonna buy the composite-video cable then. There really is no need for the composite output once you have RGB I suppose. I will post once everything arrives! Thank you all very much! Edit: Unfortunately the Composite-video cable is sold out. So I am gonna have to go ahead with Luma instead.
