I did the N64 Rgb mod here: http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/ntsc-nintendo-64-rgb/ I have it running into this : http://www.arcadespareparts.com/arc...rter/rgb_jamma_vga_converter_board/13052.html From there I have the VGA out going into my 58" Samsung Plasma. Everything was pretty easy to do and it looks good. But I am getting very faint scrolling "noise" , small bands that scroll from the bottom of the screen to the top. Probably on a much smaller TV it wouldn't be that noticeable. But on a 58" it is. There's no noise or scrolling with just the video converter on, it starts when I turn on the N64. I am running the amp off the caps c124, c125, c126 not off the R8, R9,R10 spots. Any ideas ?
OK figured it out somewhat. Ran the RGB amp inputs to the R8, R9, R10 spots and got rid of a lot of the scrolling bands. But they are still there. Seem to be scrolling faster, but a lot thinner and fainter. Hmmm...
There is a button on the scaler board that I believe resets the cpu or something anyway, long story short I had the same problem just press the button that makes the led on the board flash and it will clear up.
Also be aware - even though those boards are fantastic for their price, they are not high end and are not perfect.
I've had the same issue on my PAL-M (Brazilian) N64, it has the same specs and parts of an early N64. I use the THS7314 for video amplification, signal was dark at both points and my system features buffered C-Sync so I assume its revision 4. From the pins at the VDC there was A LOT more interference so I reverted back to the traditional way and gave up after seeing the exact same issue at an emulator. I assume, at least in StarFox 64, it has something to do with the graphics overlay of the HUD. You could try to pass the composite video through a sync cleaner but I don't think it will help at all. It's also there if you use Composite or S-Video, but you won't be able to see it clearly due to lack of definition. Depending on your case, it might be noise from the PSU/AC line, try using a filter or power surge protector to properly ground everything.
I did the RGB conversion on my NTSC N64 and it looks great on my 32" CRT using a component converter just like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-R...=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item337dfa167b but it won't work with my 46" flat screen since I think the resolution is too low and it needs 480 or higher. I also using RGB with the genesis and same problem, works great on the CRT but not the flat screen using the component converter. Both consoles look great using a friends Frameister on the flat screen but looking for a cheaper alternative to play the games on the flat screen. I'm looking for more info or reviews for the RGB Jamma to VGA board you posted since I've seen similar ones for double the price. Did you have to come up with a power supply for it? Any instructions telling what those 4 buttons in the corner do? Looks like I would have to make a scart adapter cable for it though.
I recall that someone on these forums experimented in using various composite sync sources for the GBS-8200 converter board. Try using either c-sync, composite video signal or either luma or chroma from s-video(I can't recall which one it is...) Also even if it's still low def signals, I did have video noise problems until I twisted a grounded wire around the R,G,B and sync signals that goes to a custom mounted DB15 port on the back of my console. Oh and one last very important thing that could be why you're having funky stuff around the edges of your screen : Keep all the signal wires around the same lenght! Those converter boards are really picky and maybe a small sync wave shift can cause desastrous effects on picture quality.
I did the mod this way and I think its perfect using the scart>component piece so I would hope the RGB Jamma to VGA works with my setup. i) Amplify the RGB lines with the THS7314 chip (as per http://mmmonkey.co.uk/console/nintendo/ntsc_nintendo_64_rgb_new.htm) ii) Then cut the composite video sync trace (PIN9 on the multiout marked V) and use a 75ohm resistor to connect PIN7 on the multi out (marked Y) to PIN9. (almost like this http://mmmonkey.co.uk/console/nintendo/rgbntsc.htm#link83 but linking 7 and 9 with an added resistor instead of 3 and 9) Basically using Luma instead of composite. iii) Use a PAL SNES RGB Scart Cable.
I use my official game gube scart and picture is perfect with that mod i even swapped the pif chip so i can play all my pal games now.