Hi, I was supposed to buy a pre consolised MVS but im starting to think that might not happen as funds are depleting, so instead im considering buying a MVS board and consolising myself which would cost half that much. Now here is my question, the Stereo 5volt mod MLK di over on NEO-GEO.com , I cant really understand a few parts of it and until I understand it or get shown it via video I don't want to risk attempting it. So what I wanted to know is if I was to use a Arcade Power supply which has the ground +12v +5v -5v etc, then could I just use that and feed the correct voltages to the relevant areas. Im considering the MV-1 which has the Joystick ports pre fitted and will use a jamma harness to fashion a homemade supergun. Would this work?
Are you going to consolize an MVS or build a supergun? If you are going the supergun route, note the differences between the MVS edge and the JAMMA spec: http://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/2/27/JammaVsMVS-pinouts.pdf I suppose this wouldn't matter if you only plan to use it with your MVS board, but if you want to build a supergun for your other boards too, you gotta keep this in mind. If you are consolizing the board, I would suggest a 2 slot or 1F/1FS if you don't want to mess with wiring the controllers. There are pretty good tutorials here explaining what to do: http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/tutorials.html If I'm not mistaken, (I might be) the circuit are for stereo mods for boards (like the 1b/1a) which don't have stereo through jamma, so you have to build your own amp if you are going to use it in a cab. If you are consolizing it, you're going to use it on your tv, which already has a built in amp. You might be talking about something different from what I'm thinking of though. I'm consolizing my 1B. Of course, I didn't get to test the audio part yet, but I'm doing the 5v only mod and not building any amp for stereo sound. I'll let you know how it goes, but your board anf the 1B might be different.
I was talking about this mod http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...mod-problems&p=2796968&viewfull=1#post2796968 as for supergun well really I was going to patch up a jamma connector to a scart lead power froma PSU etc and use the on board controller ports of the MVS
The 5v on consolized mvs its just disabling the 12v sound amp because you are not going to use it because is going to hook up into a tv. Once you do that you dont need the 12v and the -5v from the psu. I do my consolised my MVS from the jamma like a supergun but integrated it in an enclosure with the pcb because I was just going to use it for the mvs and in case the pcb goes bad I just replace the pcb for another.
now I understand, the 5v mod is really bypassing the stereo amp as all common TV's have a stereo amp built in so a direct connection to L/R can be made.
now that's been answered, im thinking that the stereo 5v mod is needed, but I don't understand about the trace cutting and lifting track parts, can someone explain them please
You don't even need to lift track parts. You'll need something like an exacto knife and a multimeter. examine the trace you want to cut. Use the continuity test on your multimeter on a lead on either side of the trace to make sure it beeps. using the knife, lightly & carefully scratch out the trace, checking on either side of it with the multimeter to see if you no longer have continuity. it might take a few scratches before you cut it. I highly suggest you try it out on some unneeded pcb first, just to get the feel for it.
I am happy with track breaks/cuts and very good with a solder iron what I don't understand is this part With a sharp blade (Stanley knife) cut a segment of the trace: why is it done and what is it needed for after the instructions tell you to do this there is no more mention of it, the other thing confusing me is, is it only the green coating that is removed to expose the trace or do I remove the whole trace its confusing that's all
I think you're looking at the MV-1FZ 5v mod, correct? FYI, The MV-1FZ doesn't have built in controller ports. This step cuts the 12v used to power the amp. When you cut this, your board will no longer use 12v power. In the step you have pictured, that trace you cut. The next step, you just remove the coating and make a solder bridge. The rest of the steps appear to give +5v to the audio chip and supply power to the power LED.
I see so its defo a track break that is performed yes its a 1FZ but mine will be a MV-1 I am assuming the tutorial would be different for that board
You're correct. It is much easier too http://www.jamma-nation-x.com/jammax/tutorials.html you can find the 5V mod for the MV-1 there.
