Hi, i got a midnight blue NTSC-J N64 and like to overclock it. Depending on some games working better with the OC, i think about 2.0 or 3.0 . What i found on web is allways the 2.0 multi setup. 3.0 multi did not work with the most models. But i read that the colored N64 work. Did anyone an 3.0 multi mod before? Is it maybe to fast for gameplay? I think about adding 2x 35x35 5V fans and ram cooler for it. Maybe we can share here experiences. regards Chris
Hi, I've never achieved the 3.0 multi on any console. I think I've read about one or two times that one managed to achieve it, but it was without any prove. Which mainboard rev do you have in your midnight blue system? As far as I know the "CPU-NUS-A" CPUs are working better with the 2.0 multiplier than the "CPU-NUS" found in NUS-CPU-01 to NUS-CPU-03 consoles. It seems that the new "CPU-NUS-A" is also a bit more stable. Currently I'm also modding a N64, switchable between 1.5x and 2.0x using an older Geforce cooler. I'm also planning to add 2 additional 20 or 35mm fans in combination with a temparature-controlled fan control. I've got some more photos here: http://pmod.de/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=2673
Im still not open it up, because i waiting for some other parts. But will use also a GPU heatsink. Fits perfect on top of the other heatsinks. Maybe i remove the stock one, but than i need some pads because the high difference from ram and CPU/GPU. About the 2.0 multi, games where dont profit from the higher clock run like on 1.5? Also interesting about 3.0 : http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=5223.0
That heatsink fits very well! I've also cut the origninal shielding plate to the size of the heatsink so I can use it to fix the whole cooling assembly with screws to the maiboard/ shell. Unfortunately not. There are different effects occurring, depending on the way the games are programmed. There are some games like Mario 64 which are not affected by the overclocking at all. Personally I believe this appropriate for titles which were in development before the final hardware was ready. Some other titles use the CPU clock for the in-game timer -> these games do run faster with the 2.0 multi.
I’ve ran my console with the 3.0x setting before, and did a thread about it here at Assembler – there is nothing to gain, it is just a useless setting only achievable through underclocking the RDRAM, RCP, and PIF altogether. The N64 CPU was designed to operate at 100 MHz: the RCP feeds a 62.5 MHz clock signal (master clock) to the CPU, which is multiplied (1.5x) by its internal PLL to arrive at the 93.75 MHz stock clock. The issue with stability in higher multiplier settings lies in the CPU’s PLL and master clock frequency. If master clock is too high (out of range for the PLL) for a particular multiplier setting to handle, the CPU will never generate a stable clock signal and boot, thus the RCP’s master clock ought to be lowered as multiplier settings go up – NEC has a manual detailing this on their VR43xx series of chips. Depending on the silicon lottery and a few other board-related factors, some consoles can operate stably at 2.0x for hours or indefinitely, while other consoles won’t boot or will freeze within moments of booting.
Its a NUS-CPU-08 board from 1999 inside the midnight blue. Works great with 2.0 multi My cooling solution is to keep the top shield, and set the heatsink with fan on top. Fits perfect with the top cover! installed a switch for 1.5 / 2.0 , changed the LED for a purpel one, still waiting for the etim RGB board.
got my RGB board from australia.. Installed and work fine still some space for the hdmi mod, when i found a kit. The cooling solution works great. I installed the heatsink with thermal clue on the top of the shield cover. The heatsinks from the chips got thermal paste for better connection to the top shield.
