OPEN A CRT MONITOR WITHOUT DYING

Hi,

I really would like to open a commodore1084s d2 monitor to fix a sync issue connectin two pins on a chip and stuff like that.

I'm pretty good at solderin but I'm not an electrician and never opened a crt monitor in my life, I know there are some risks to get high voltage and I don't wanna die....

Someone can say me how to do it properly?

many thanks

 

I've dealt with arcade CRT and a few of my own smaller displays (Commodore 1081, Sony KX-14CP1).

My advice would be to respect the hardware. Secondly, don't be touching anything that you don't need to be touching. The main two things to keep away from are the anode and the flyback transformer.

Keeping the display unplugged for a day or even a week is a good idea too as this will allow it to discharge.

If you have to make adjustments with the display on, make sure you have one arm pointed in the opposite direction of the display so that you don't create a circuit for anything to flow repeated through your body and heart.

 

Discharging an arcade monitor still scares the crap out of me. Hopefully it will be awhile before I have to do so.

 

Seek a professional if you're that unsure.

 

I had to do this in college. NOT fun. Also had to decompress a tube, equally scary.

 

Hello,

Have a look at these:

http://lowendmac.com/2007/the-truth-about-crts-and-shock-danger/

http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#DischargeTool


To discharge CRTs I made a discharge tool like the one shown in the link. Works well.

Good Luck

 

Yikes, I went into the back of my 1702 to connect an S-Video mini din, didn't know I could die.

Didn't die though.

Obviously.

 

Stay away from capacitors. Purposely short circuit them. Grab a screw driver with a very rubbery/insulated handle and connect the terminals. It will make a big spark and crack. But, better the screw driver than you!

 

I just discharge CRTs through a big resistor.

 

I built a cheap discharging rod out of a lengthy screwdriver w/ a thick gauge wire wrapped and soldered to the base with a ludicrous amount of electrical tape wrapping the thing, used it to discharge my Centipede monitor with no issue

 

If you have to ask, you should seriously consider whether you want to do it yourself.

The correct was is with a (rather expensive) HT probe. You can make something using a screwdriver and HT cable with a clip on the other end, but it will go crack if there is anything in there, rather than bleed off with the probe. ALWAYS keep one hand out of the monitor, preferably in your pocket. And you should have it completely unplugged.

You don't need to leave it unplugged for weeks - 10 minutes should be fine, especially if the discharger is working correctly. A CRT is a huge capacitor in effect - it will recharge itself, even when discharged.

Are you sure that the sync issue is a fault that requires chassis removal?

 

thank you guys for all the answers, I'm gonna study a little more and see if riskin life is a good option

unfortunately this 1084s has sync problems that other 1084s don't have, I read somewhere this can be easily fixed solderin two pins of a chip inside the monitor, otherwise I think will work sync strippin the signal, which would be a death-free option for sure. Probably I'll choose the second option but in the future I'd like build some lil cabinets with 1084s, so sooner or later I'd have to deal with that

 

It's not. Professional help is the best.

 

I recently (there is a thread about it here) procured a 1080i capable Trinitron that had convergence issues. I had to adjust the "rings" around the back of the tube to align the three electron guns so you didn't have what amounted to a blurry image doubling.

Didn't get shocked once but I was very careful as to what I touched. I wouldn't recommend anyone do this without at least some reading as to what is bad and what isn't.

 

I would still always discharge the tube just to play it safe.

 

Sound advice. Not only is it safer for you, it is MUCH safer for the electronics. The arcing created when shorting a capacitor can damage components and the solder pads / create cold solder joints.

 

If you don't have a HV probe, improvise!

You can whip up one of these:



So you can do one of these:



So you can safely use these:





Seriously, don't touch anything on the CRT/Chassis without properly discharging the tube, regardless of how long it's been unplugged or the age.

A lot of newer sets (such as the one you see my servicing above) are equipped with bleeding resistors in-line on the flyback anode, nevertheless it isn't worth the risk.