Panasonic 3DO FZ-1 TIME BOMB Capacitor! (I think

Just got myself a like new FZ-1 that does 240p on it own, all same great but I like to look at the Capacitors to make sure they look good & if not add new ones or some polymer caps.

I remember Top Hat gaming man saying his FZ-1 just up & die on him one day... I think I know why now & this may be something too look for on all FZ-1 models.

The 10uf 16v Cap that most likely part of the power setup & they all look to be the same color.
This cap is most likely leaking next to the power switch & on my PCB it remove one little SMD thing that I slowing fixed but if I never added it back on, I'm sure my 3D0 will stop powering on at all as its right next to the voltage regulator.

In the end, I removed this 10uF 16v Cap & added a new 10uF 16v Polymer Cap to be safe.
Of course I also cleaned up the circuit board around this area as well.

P.S. Maybe this info is known but just letting you all know as I don't see much info on this, maybe the power caps the ones that go bad the most.

 

I would recap the whole board. I had sound issues with mine that were related to the capacitors, and many others have had various capacitor-related issues with this unit as well.

 

I've found the same issues with FZ-1. Usually C35 (1000uF) and C36 (10uF) go bad. C1 (6800uF) doesn't seem to have issues. U can also replace C630 (470uF) and C631 (1000uF) but it's not always necesssary. The rest I would replace only if symptomatic after replacing the previously mentioned caps.

I repaired a PAL FZ-1 last month which was suffering continuous reset loop problems. Found C35 and C36 to be bad (leaking). The traces had become corroded, luckily there was still enough copper to solder the replacement caps to. C1 seemed ok but I replaced it anyway. I would recommend replacing these 2 caps (C35, C36) on old 3DO before they go bad, to avoid future issues.

 

I'm looking to recap the whole board using mostly Aluminium Organic Polymer Capacitors to be safe from leaking, sure 6800uF is like the only one that is not be Polymer for sure. C35 (1000uF) and C1 (6800uF) too to be ok... for now will mostly like play it safe soon as the PCB looks almost new & I can see old $600 price tag in it.

(I'm sure I'm going overkill on Polymer Caps)