pcb soldering fubar! Can I fix this?

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by brainpann, Jul 17, 2011.

  1. brainpann

    brainpann Site Supporter 2012

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    6
    Ok, I was trying to drop in a new chip into a sfc Star Ocean cart and I believe (pretty sure actually) that I messed up 3 of the pinouts on the maskrom area and can not get it to take solder. Everything else is fine except for leads for 23,30, and 38. I think I was getting cocky should have been wearing my reading glasses. Can this be fixed or am I screwed?
    The white circle is the 33 lead and does not get soldered to.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 17, 2011
  2. l_oliveira

    l_oliveira Officer at Arms

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Messages:
    3,879
    Likes Received:
    245
    That damage is pretty repairable. You scratch the copper on the track after the broken pad (only the one at right look like badly broken and it seems like a +5v pad) and then an not so rigid wire could be used (and fixed with hotglue) for the repair.

    Your wires are too rigid which might be the cause of the pad popping out. :thumbsup:

    And you could use a TSOP chip which would probably easier to find ...



    SHVC-LN3B (S-DD1) :rolleyes:

    Star Ocean... I want one too :Rock:
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2011
  3. brainpann

    brainpann Site Supporter 2012

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    6
    Whew! That makes me feel better! The wires were actually soldered in AFTER I did this. I went ahead anyway since I am just using some separated ribbon cable. The pads came out when I was de-soldering (and lifting the pins) of the mask rom. Thanks for the help. I will try that out and see what happens.
     
  4. APE

    APE Site Supporter 2015

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2005
    Messages:
    6,416
    Likes Received:
    138
    Worse case someone could follow the trace to the chip on the right and solder directly to its legs for 2 of the three. The third one l_oliveira mentioned looks like it might run off with a trace to the right towards the same chip but I can't quite make it out from the photo, just a bit too fuzzy and not a macro.

    Even if you lift most of those they're not too difficult to repair, luckily for you.
     
  5. brainpann

    brainpann Site Supporter 2012

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    6
    So I got everything soldered in and the game started but there seems to be graphical glitches. Is that from a bad flash? There are graphical glitches on the title screen, start screen, and then the game starts but all I can hear is music. Anyone got an idea?
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2011
  6. l_oliveira

    l_oliveira Officer at Arms

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2007
    Messages:
    3,879
    Likes Received:
    245
    S-DD1 requires the lockout chip in it's original state to work.

    So you need your console with the CIC in it's original state for it to work. If the S-DD1 can't detect the CIC running, it will not decompress the graphics.
     
  7. brainpann

    brainpann Site Supporter 2012

    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Messages:
    403
    Likes Received:
    6
    I have not done anything to the cic on my snes and as far as I know not to the cart either. I am going to go through the wiring again tonight because the chip is confirmed to work. Hopefully I will get this working just in time for my rgb cables to arrive. I need something to play before Xenoblade and Deus Ex are released. :)
     
sonicdude10
Draft saved Draft deleted
Insert every image as a...
  1.  0%

Share This Page