Looking for some help on where I might have gone wrong during this mod. I am getting noticeable checkerboard interference with my PS1 through RGB SCART ( multiple different cables and brands ), so I decided on doing the internal C-Sync mod. Basically, I see no difference at all and the issue is still present. I read up on it beforehand and I'm sure I got everything done correctly. Is there anything I also need to do to the SCART cable? How I done the mod on my SCPH-5552 (PU-18): CXA1645M video chip 'pin 20' > resistor 75ohm > 220uf 16v capacitor > pin 6 AVMulti Out - Cut composite line. Also disabled MM3 chip just in case, but that made no difference. No other mods are present.
Pin 20 is composite out so you're still getting composite but with your own components instead of the trace. There are some examples in this thread: http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/ps1-c-sync-help.56631/
Okay thanks. I actually done the mod reading your posts in that thread along with the other links posted in there. Not sure what the next step is though. Tried to understand it all the best I could.
As long as you aren't soldering to pin/leg 20 and the composite trace has been completely cut, that should be it. If you have a PS composite cable to test with, you should only be getting audio. I'm not sure what else could be wrong. The PS1 does use some graphic effects that resembles crosshatching in itself. Also, I think this N64 thread mentions that some people had better results using Luma as sync with a certain LCD TV brand.
I did indeed solder directly to the pin. Should I lift it up and solder to the pad? Yeah, I wasn't sure how to wire my cabble for sync on luma otherwise I would have just done that.
No, either lift leg 20 or cut the composite trace on the motherboard(like you did). Then you need to get csync from the little via/hole, like we did in the other thread(with the yellow wire). Also, when cutting the composite trace, be sure to solder the wire to the Multi AV out pin and not to the pad slightly below leg 20. Like ynoS XSP did but with the resistor and capacitor added. I've added some short instructions to my first post in the other thread.
All done! No checkerboard pattern. It always stood out badly on the Resident Evil title screen letters and now it's really clean. Thanks for helping with this. Appreciated