PlayStation 2 MECHACON Adjustment Program (PMAP)

Well, he says the drive works in another console, so it doesn't sound like the motor itself. Maybe what drives it on the board?

I'm not able to have a look at the schematics right now, but I've had similar faults on a ps1

 

Ah yea, I forgot that PS2s are said to have a tendency to fry the driver ICs.. It could be that, yeah.

Hm, was it the machine not going into 2x mode by chance?
I have 2 consoles doing that. The discs would spin up and appear to detect the disc wobble code, but never spin up to 2x mode.

 

No, not much. I just feel the motor pushing for the 5 initial clicks. I need to rotate it in between that time. after that, rotating has no effect!


When vertically, i dont need to spin it by hand. is just a matter of resetting 2 or 3 times and it spins. Sometimes spins at the first try.

Is this my mechacon??

Where am I supposed to weld the wires?

[GALLERY=media, 1796]Mecha-con by ftadeufs posted Dec 7, 2016 at 9:07 AM[/GALLERY]

Hello everyone. I´ve found something:
On PS2 Ident, it shows SANYO:


Is it supposed to be an HD7 console? or it might had switched to the default sanyo when the laser block was changed?

 

One was not spinning into 2x.

One was not spinning much at all, just like this one. I never tried spinning it though, assuming the fault is the spindle driver and spinning helps - could be that its just not providing enough current to get the motor started, once its spinning it doesnt take as much to keep it going?

I think I documented my ps1 issue/fix on this forum (somewhere) or maybe it was the chatbox, cant remember.

 

Used lenschanger to change to KHS-400C and now the disc starts spinning right away! looks like an improvement.
In PS2ident now shows SONY.

Now DVD´s start spinning right away, and you can hear the laser trying to focus, but cant detect disc, and after spinning for about 20 seconds, the disc stops. It keeps saying "reading disc..." on the screen. After exactly 1 minute the disc spins again and reads fine!
Now the 5 click thing happens on CD´s instead. The CD´s STOP and dont read.

WOWWWW!!! Problem SOLVED!!!!!!!

Changed the SANYO to SONY with the Lenschanger, and the laser was a bit worn out.
Used a new laser i received last month, and everything works just fine!!!

The only thing i find weird now, is the PAL ps1 games working B&White... ... If i turn the modchip off, they work in color...

I´m really happy with this!!!
Thank you all for the support!!

Now I´ll try to fix the other console!!

 

What you did was the very lazy version of using the PMAP adjustment tools. Lenschanger basically gives your console a new set of parameters for the laser and if you're lucky, they fit well enough. Guess you're lucky!

The black and white problem is the old format issue on composite video. If you use an RGB cable, you'll always have color.
I don't know what your modchip does but your console probably loads the PAL PSX emulator and the chip messes with the settings to center the picture. Maybe.

Anyway, congrats!

 

Yes! I was lucky! and the B&W stuff with ps1 games, never happened again..

I gess I messed up when fixing the second console... ... (at least the one I value the most is perfect now!)...

I Used one of the good KHS-400C from the V9´s to test the Second GH015 SCPH 30004R. Used lenschanger and it worked flawlessly! Readed both PS1 and PS2 games. I thougth I had the consoles fixed... but I was wrong... Then I switched back the Laser unit to the V9, and tested... and it readed nothing in the V9... Switched back to the 30004R and it reads very badly with lots of focus noises... I think the second console is frying the lasers :/ ... is it possible?

I think I was lucky with the first console, but I think I will need to do The PMAP adjustments on this second one... and order a new laser for the V9.

 

So it seems like your consoles originally came with SANYO SF-HD7s eh? Congratulations on discovering that.

The model ID does indicate some things about the console, like whether it is a DEX, the optical block type (SONY or SANYO) or if it has the AUTO-TILT motor.

I don't know why your KHS-400C stopped working, for sure. Perhaps you accidentally knocked something out of alignment, as you inserted and removed the optical block?

 

Yes, you were right! Just dont know how the hell it was in HD7 with a KHS-400C inside... maybe it switched back to defaults whan disassembled or something... and it happened on two consoles.. I started trying to gigure out the problem 3 years ago and I was starting to run out of hope! thank you!

Dont know how it happened, but everything looks fine... I´m afraid the second console is frying the lenses. The previous owner gave it to me complaining it was not reading discs of any type.

When I put the laser back in the V9 it was making funny noises and wobbling a lot. and the disc tray opened and closed very fast. Switched it off immediately, and secured that everything was well connected, and the tray problem was gone. the laser continued to wobble a lot (the lens inside the KHS400C was moving around like crazy). It could be something badly conected.

This time I dont want to tinker with the pots. I want to try PMAP. I want to learn how to keep this things running in good condition in my collection, and not being dependant on pure luck with lenschanger. But GH-015 schemes, AFAIK doesn´t exist. I´ve searched a lot, and I dont know how to wire the connections to this type of mechacon... Do you have anithing about this version?

 

The SF-HD7 that came with the F-chassis was the open-face model (doesn't have the plastic housing of the newer version). So perhaps you thought that it was a KHS-400C? Anyway, it's good to know that you've figured out what happened.

The optical blocks don't last forever, so it could have simply just failed due to wear and tear (according to the PS2 standards, anyway!).

The MECHACON for the F-chassis is the BGA-mounted CXP103049.
Have you tried referring to the service manual for the GH-015?

 

You can find PS2 service manuals via Google and probably on this forum as well. Look for test points named like those here:

where TEST means "enable test mode" by grounding this point (use a manual switch for this). TXD and RXD go to your Arduino. Also route one ground wire to the Arduino. Remember to use a 3.3V Arduino!

 

All the lasers I have ever seen live, have KHS-400C written on it. Maybe one of the "technitians" who opened it before me, tryed to change it with no results and sent the console back to me with the different laser inside...

Its just weird seeing an perfect optical block who read everything to a no reader in 2 minutes... I´ve read a lot on modchips burning lasers and coils, that I dont know if its something like that...

Yes. Being searching for those schemes for months. Only found for the GH-010 and GH-012 boards. Nothing for the GH-015.
Searched moments ago, and google only leads me to the same service manuals for the SCPH-30000/50000. Nothing for the 30004R on those..

Do you have a scheme for GH-015 you can provide me?
I have to wire 3 wires to the arduino (TXD, RXD and GND), right? and ground the test mode with a switch to disable it to test in real game usage, right?

 

Found this on the web: http://i.imgur.com/KD99vUR.png
And yes, that's how the setup goes.
Also on the Arduino itself, you shorten the Reset pin to Ground with a wire and then hook the Arduino up to your PC with a USB cable.
Your Arduino will show up as COM3, most likely. If any of the tools need it to be a different COM port, you can reassign it in the device manager.
You then run "PMAP.exe com3" from a command line terminal and follow the instructions.

 

That model is not GH-015. I can´t relate that model to mine. Mine is in attachment.
This is My mechacon, can you tell me where to weld the wires please?:

Thank you

 

Those points aren't on the same side of the board as the MECHACON, for your model. The position of the points does vary between models.

You don't need to use an Arduino. Just any RS232-compliant level converter that supports 3.3V (i.e. MAX3222) will do the same job. Personally, I used the FT232RL because it also allows me to connect to the EE, which seems to be a 1.8V device.

 

The test points will all be on a motherboard side that is somehow accessible when the console is nearly fully assembled.
Sony used test jigs that could make contact to the test points through holes in the shielding, so look for them there.

 

Specifically, they're at the roof of the expansion bay. For the PC CARD consoles, it's facing the bottom of the console, but under the RF shield.

 

Thank you all. I didnt realize it was on the other side of the board ..
Flipped it and there they are: testpoints.
[GALLERY=media, 1797]Testpoints by ftadeufs posted Dec 9, 2016 at 8:33 AM[/GALLERY]

I will prepare everything and test PMAP!! I´ll give feedback tomorrow or something!

Thank you!

 

Here are the test points for a V3, GH-007 board. Recently had to repair and calibrate one of these and the test points were not easy to find because they're not labeled in the service manual.