I need this because my CRT Sony Triniton change the ration to 16:9 when I connect the console through RGB because pin 8 it's fed only with +5V according to this diagram: http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/psx.png On SCART standards +5–8 V means status ON (change automatically to rgb source) and aspect ratio 16:9 and +9.5–12 V means status ON and aspect ratio 4:3. Unfortunately cannot set the TV to "always 4:3" because that option doesn't exist on the select menu or service menu. So, is there a possibility to fed pin 8 with 9V and not to change manually the ratio every time when I connect my PS1/2 to the TV? Thanks!
Sony Trinitron model KV-21CL10K. Here is the manual: http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/4093929512.pdf Here is the service manual: http://www.data-chip.ru/download.php?id=2655 Thanks!
One way to do this is soldering a 9V battery holder onto the scart plug. Pretty ghetto but it does work ;p
According to this diagram http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/gamescart/psx.png the console provides a +5V DC on pin 10. Soldering a 9V DC battery on pin 10 then the output will be 19V... which according to SCART standards is too high; +9.5–12 V → on/4:3 is normal. But it's a good idea Thanks!
I will test it with a +5V DC battery. For the moment I will need to replace the caps inside the SCART because they have lower values than 220uF (recommended) and I think the image is a little too dark. I think the caps have 180uF values. UPDATE: wow... they have 100uF 10V ...
Or less ghetto, use something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XL6009-DC...728600?hash=item1eb1b94798:g:Ik8AAOSwJcZWgUny
@Bad_Ad84 nice suggestion but it could be a problem. When I got an original PSX RGB cable by chance, I noticed a lot of my PSX suddenly developed startup issues. It turned out that the initial power draw of the booster Sony used in their design was a little too much for the console! Maybe it's just my cable and surely newer designs are better, but I wouldn't rule out this happening again. Sure, you can just tap reset once after it fails to start but it seems ..unsafe. I removed the circuit from my cable since I don't need it ;p @helakustorm Yes, 100uF is too little. It will work but cause slight image degradation. It's also a sign of a cheap cable so expect other issues as well.
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...on-1-2-ps1-ps2-rgb-scart-cable-lead-rca-sound A cable like this will give you comparable results to the official, high quality cable. Of course you still have the 12V switching problem then. I'd continue looking for a workaround on your TV and get that cable. Edit: If it's not in stock or too far for shipping, look around for RGB cable supplier suggestions on forums. There are a few vendors on Ebay that make good quality cables in the same price range.
Thank you rama for helping me. It's not a big problem because I can change the aspect ration on my remote control but I need to do this everytime I turn on the TV.. it's a little annoying. Pardon my question rama but why did you choose that specific cable with separated audio/RCA? It's better for interferences on the audio part to have the video and audio split?
Well, there will probably come a time when you want to connect to different audio equipment. Maybe over at a friends or when you get / decide to use an external amplifier. This option is a cheap upgrade to prepare for that event Oh, and there's no need to thank me. I just like to share what I learned. No need for others to spend money on the wrong items as I did
I have an original PS1 RGB cable and have no such issues. Its the cable I use for all PS1/2 consoles that hit my workbench. Regarding that booster, the consumption is very low. Maybe I will measure it when I get time/chance
Oh, I understand rama. My question was because I was reading some articles on the internet about good RGB cables and they recommended to have split audio and video sources and they only be joined in the SCART. But my logic tells me if they are shielded I don't think that there is a problem.
That would be nice if you captured the initial power draw. It is the gray cable with the pcb in the SCART plug, right?
That tip is valid but if the shielding is correct, you can pass audio near the video lines as well. But if you were to build a cable yourself, and don't have the best stuff to use, then routing audio away from the video will help a little.
The one that also somehow doesn't have capacitors on the RGB lines, correct? I nearly forgot about that. I mean, the cable did work and I didn't seem to have issues but every documentation on the consoles or the video encoders / buffers tells us they're required
