Playstation 4 Controller Prototype (JDX-1000) Teardown

I finally got a replacement JDX-1000 after I sold my last one and it was a little beat up and damaged so I decided why not try and take it apart to check out the internals.
Sorry in advance for the not very good pictures I had to use my iPhone to take these and I plan on using a DSLR later to get better ones.


As you can see the stickers on the back and the thumb sticks are all messed up but thats to be expected at least a little since this was used at a game studio.
There are only 4 small phillips head screws that are required to actually get the back panel off BUT its really fit on there and I had to use quite a bit of force to get it apart.



The battery pack is very hard to read even in person but it says MODEL LIP1472 3.7V 570mAh

Here is the backside of the main controller board as you can tell its quite a bit different from retail, such as the reset button.

The lightbar is also 2 different pieces.

Here is the backside of the front faceplate.

Here is the front side of the controller board with all the buttons just sitting near where they go.

And last here is the front side of the controller board with the buttons moved off to the side.
With how hard it was to get the controller actually apart I suggest that people really shouldn't try it on theirs as I felt like I was going to break it.

 

I have a question do you happen to bite on you're nails?

 

Yeah when I get anxious I do, it's something I've been trying to stop doing for awhile but blah blah blah.

 

Thanks for the pictures!
The JDX1000e work also on a retail console if you use a conusmax+ adapter.
For the people want to use it.

 

T

Talk about the D-pad
How does it feel?

 

It feels much better when you want to trigger the points between up/down/left/right.
But its not so spongy as the 360 controller, i think more like the good old SNES/SFC D-Pad.
L2/R2 is also much better fine-control as the retail one.

Also work wireless on PS3/4 with a bluetooth stick.