Hi. Well I adjusted my laser POT and I can read Compact Disc Re-Writable's! I burned Loser2000's PRINTGPU.EXE and it ran fine! It is possible to add a switch that will automatically set the ohm value, so that I switch from playing normal CD-ROM and CD-RW. I will put up a video / tutorial onto my site for those that are interested soon. As Tails said to me a while ago, it is great for programming and development. Hence, why I did it. Mainly so I do not have hundreds of coasters which will save the environment http://youtu.be/eBIYFJ6R3Os [video=youtube_share;eBIYFJ6R3Os]http://youtu.be/eBIYFJ6R3Os[/video] It can stream .STR's pretty well. I mean, it skips here and there lightly but hey, its a video on a CD-RW playing on a PlayStation 1! The skipping can probably be fixed in Virtualdub / STR tools... I have played Bust a Groove on it and it runs well. Just be sure to burn your CD-RW's at 1x or 2x speed and use brand new high quality discs.
The idea is not mine, it was commonly known at one point but nowadays few people seem to do it anymore. Just for clarifying.
I know I know, but just wanted to share the credit here I got Bust a Groove running off of it, however mid through a song it cuts out and the motor stops. Any idea why it is doing this? I would also like to share, that you can burn to Mini-CD's. 225MB max. Moto Racer and Vib Ribbon will fit onto one. Vib Ribbon, will actually fit into the PlayStations RAM (without audio) I think...
Also, if you are burning to a CD-RW, I used DiscJuggler. I set it to 10x write speed and selected MODE2, Table of Contents (TOC) was CD-XA and block is 2352. I also un-checked 'Add post-gap to 3rd party images'. This stopped most of the 'skipping' and ran Bust a Groove a little bit better with not as much skipping in the audio tracks. However, I now know you should burn at 1x or 2x speed - do not burn at 10x. I also found this http://gamesource.groups.yahoo.com/group/psxdev/message/1857
UPDATE Set the burn speed to the slowest. 1x is perfect, 2x is okay. Also, take note that every PlayStation laser is different. You may notice that the SCPH-9000 series will perform better, which is why I reccomend doing this to a PSone or 900x PlayStation. The CD-RW can not have a single scratch on it, or fingerprint. The error correction is a lot more sensitive in this case. Make sure you use clean, brand new CD-RW's. I followed the steps above, and my Bust a Groove game worked perfect.
Why so excited? This was common "back in the day" its not anything new? Edit: Tails even mentioned it was common too =/
I know. I played Bust a Groove ages ago on a RW. I just wanted to give this an update from my mistakes so anyone who follows it, will know what to do. I originally said to burn at 10x speed. I have gone back and edited it all. I did not know it was popular. Well, I didn't know or think about such a thing. It opened my eyes a little is all I can say
Thanks a lot. I didn't know about ISO2RAW ECC recalculation capability. I always used CD Image Converter 1.10 (aka CiC) for converting my ISOs and ECCRegen 1.41 (slow as hell) for generating the ECC info.
Gotta have the discs 100% fingerprint/scratch free, brand new, of good quality, burnt at 1x and likely with the power turned up high enough to help kill the laser much quicker. What the hell is the point with all of the downsides again? Unless suddenly I find myself on a deserted island where a CD-RW factory was abandoned and I happen to have a 900x PS1 on hand...
Happens more often than you might think... In the early 2000's I did some binary hacks and had a lot of coasters, I tried making my psx read cd-rw's, but it just wouldn't.
The PSX CD drive is already bad in normal conditions and it's even worse when tweaking the potentiometer to make it read CD-RWs. So playing games on CD-RWs is russian roulette. And yes, this tweak was pretty common. Its main use is to not make too many coasters during homebrew development.
