Please help me finish a Japanese translation ( Instructions for AV famicom RGB Kit)

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by MaxWar, Nov 5, 2012.

  1. MaxWar

    MaxWar <B>Site Supporter 2013</B>

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    *I am also posting this request on Famicom world: http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=8609.0

    Hi, i would like some help (likely from someone fluent in Japanese) to help me finish the translation of the instructions for this Mod kit: I think many here will be familiar with this kit.
    I bought the kit from this site:
    http://homepage3.nifty.com/F-LABO/ProductsList.html

    I have the full version of the kit with audio separation circuit and i obtained a New old stock RGB PPU (RP2C03B) elsewhere.

    Now of course the instructions are all japanese.
    I scanned the original instructions.
    Used an OCR Software.
    Used google translate to figure out the thing.

    This method yielded mostly a complete mess of words but i could figure pretty much all of it and have rewritten the instructions in english.

    However some parts i could not make much sense of, and there is also the possibility that i missed something important somewhere.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Once the translation is good enough i will make another thread to make the Translated instruction available to all.


    Here are the pictures.

    First the original scans:
    http://i.imgur.com/iqYJ3.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/LdKYj.jpg

    Now the translation works i have made:
    http://i.imgur.com/6eRme.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/jqwhc.jpg

    Also, i scanned the blank PCB from the kit:
    http://i.imgur.com/awCEB.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/jDZ0B.jpg


    So I have a very good idea of how to build this thing at this point but there are a few important parts missing.

    1. In the part list, there is a place where a line for a resistor is crossed. Looks like they remplaced that part, but not sure what thats all about. Especially with the 0 ohm part.

    2. Tool list: I cant figure out what the first tool is. ( Resolved )

    Step 20: Ok step 20 is empty on my translation, it refers heavily on the diagram above it, which i could not translate because the OCR did not work on it.
    Its mostly about the connection of audio and the installation of some Capacitor on connector pins. Heres the text that the OCR software gave me for step 20:
    Step 23 : Step 23 is about some specific tests that are done on the circuitry to make sure everything is all right before you actually power it up. This is important because it can help you prevent frying 400$ of hardware you just bought. However I could not make much sense of the translation i got from google. It involved measuring resistance somewhere and voltage somewhere else but i dont get it specifically.

    Heres what the OCR gave me for step 23

    Those are the specific parts that i have problem with. Maybe im forgetting somewhere else ( its getting late) but anyway if someone who can read japanese could do an overall review of the work i did i would really appreciate. I just spent several hours doing all this work and i would really like to get it all done properly.

    So far I figured more than i translated which means some parts may be quite different from the original formulation but as long as no key parts are missing it should be good.

    The author gives many personal recommendations as how he likes to do things. This is "somewhat" secondary but still helpful. I may have adapted some of these parts to how i would do it myself instead, because a word for word translation was very hard to do. Any help greatly appreciated, I do this for myself but also to help the English modder community who would like to order and use this kit.
    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2012
  2. Rosser

    Rosser Active Member

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    Just wondering How much was the kit with shipping
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2012
  3. MaxWar

    MaxWar <B>Site Supporter 2013</B>

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    The kit is 8000 yen, which means a little over 100$. You need a proxy service ( or a friend in Japan ) to buy it and ship it for you, which mean it should be at least 125$ shipped. In my case i combined it with other stuff i ordered from a proxy service so saved on shipping.

    As for the translation, the first tool is in the list is a Phillips screwdriver. I guess i could have figured that one easily since its needed to removed the motherboard inside...
     
  4. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Would be interested to hear your opinion on the board. I've just bought an AV Famicom and this may be an upgrade route for it.

    Also how much was the PPU if you don't mind?
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2012
  5. MaxWar

    MaxWar <B>Site Supporter 2013</B>

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    I will likely start working on assembling this kit tonight. The guys over at Famicom world have helped me figure the more nebulous parts of the instructions. I will certainly have more to say about this kit once i am done however my first impression is that this kit seems to be very good quality. Nice, thick PCB with good layout. Documentation ( albeit In japanese )is detailed and overall I really think whoever designed this kit really wanted to make a quality product and really worked it out. This being said, at over 100$ for a bunch of parts, i still think its a bit on the expensive side for what it is.

    Now the PPU... Well, I paid 140$ for a new old Stock PPU. ITs a lot of money for a single chip yet im still relatively lucky to have a new old stock PPU at this price. They seem to quite commonly go in the 200$ range ( at least in NA ). A good thing i got a new chip, i dont think i could have brought myself to hurt a Playchoice motherboard, I think if you do this you might end up in gamer hell in the afterlife.

    Luckily someone will design a alternative PPU before all the Playchoice boards have been gutted.
    This guy here sounds like he means it. : http://universalppu.com/
     
  6. Segata Sanshiro

    Segata Sanshiro speedlolita

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    Bloody hell that's expensive (PPU)! I suppose grabbing one and removing it from a board probably isn't much cheaper though.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2012
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