PS Vita has black horizontal lines, diagnosis and repair?

Hi, I just bought a cosmic red PCH-1001 PS Vita from Japan.
I am pretty sure that this is not the dread mura effect.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Mur...v&sa=X&ei=0XlnVIfMH4P0oATomYHoBA&ved=0CB0QsAQ


My question is, was it caused by physical damage, like dropping the vita?
Or is it weak soldering on the connection between the Digitizer and OLED on the Ribbon cable.
let me know! thanks

The Lines are much darker in person and are more apparent when the screen is displaying a white background like the one in welcome park

 

Chances are it's a faulty oled display.
Do the lines move? Try gently (very gently) twisting the console, if they move around it could just be a bad flex cable going to the lcd. Depending how the flex is attached you may still need a new display

 

The lines did not move when I twisted it. Could the contacts on the flex cable to the mother board be bad? Should I put wd4 to degrease it? I might take it apart later, see what is what. Thanks

 

lol if you put WD40 on that not even SONY will be able to repair it for you.

Anyway, the screen is damaged. It has no repair possible. Only repair for that vita is a new screen.

Edit: oh and mura is something you see only on screens which need a separate source of light (backlight or back reflector). OLED generates it's own light at the active elements which form the image.

 

I see, I just remember someone suggesting to use wd40 on the contact points of the charger port on the vita and it worked for me when the charger was not working.

 

If you pour WD40 on the screen, it will enter through the gaps and then dissolve the compounds that form the optics and then the whole screen will come apart (it will dissolve the glue which keep the panel stuff together).

It worked for the power contacts but you don't want to pour WD40 on any kind of optics, such as optical drives or any kind of display. Also it would stain the backlight Fresnel filter if it was a LCD.

Just don't ... lol

WD40 surely has it's uses but not on that stuff.

 

You've let your imagination go wild. I never said anything about pouring wd40 on the screen, but just the contact points on the ribbon cable.

thanks for the replies though.

is there anyway to remove the OLED from the glass digitizer (with pro equipment?)

 

The oled IS the "glass digitizer" you say.

These screens have two parts:

1-Electronics (usually a pair of microchips embedded on the flex ribbon which connects the glass screen to the host machine)
2-The OLED matrix (OLED elements sandwiched by glass plus optical filtering elements)

The stripes are likely caused by a fault on one of the two chips (each chip does part of the matrix, one being responsible for generating the voltage for the Y grid and the other for the X grid) depending on which one of them fails you will get vertical or horizontal lines on the screen.

That stuff is welded and glued together, which means it's disposable. Once it's faulty the only fix is replacing.

 

Screen is most likely shot, I've found Oleds to be pretty fragile.. Most oled screens are 1mm or less in thickness! The Samsung i9300 (the T variant iirc) had a fairly common issue of the oled dropping it's guts, it would develop lines and black areas on a whim.. Turns out this was caused by the handset being too thin and twisting in peoples pockesess. This was later fixed in the design of the mid chassis but then well 100's of units where cropping up with defective flash memory but I'm getting off topic here haha

 

The 1st Gen expansion bay model of the PS2 console (SCPH-30001 GH-004 and GJH-005 motherboards) have a slight design flaw where the CD/DVD DSP develop cracks on the solders at it's pins causing random malfunctions. It's due to the motherboard being thin and thermal expansion making the chip crack it's pins also it does not help that they added an heat pad for the CD/DVD DSP chip (even though it doesn't heat enough to need one). Funny enough it's not the source of the heat which break it's own pins ... (the heat actually comes from the Emotion Engine chip.)
It's fairly annoying to dismantle the motherboard assembly and repair the fault but usually you only need to do fix that fault once. It never breaks again, which suggests poor soldering materials being used at the factory.

The original PSP has a design flaw where pushing the D-PAD too hard causes the NAND/DRAM and the Tachyon (CPU SoC) chips to break their connection balls to the motherboards. With that fault the PSP behaves like if it was soft-bricked.

On PSP slims the fault still exists but is less serious. The issue is a "loss of video signal" where the screen blacks out while the machine is still operating.

Talk about design flaws ...

 

Yeah! I think psp has the worst solder that i've even see! The melting point it's terribly high, and the solder it's very hard, causing easly break in the connection.
The motherboard also, it have 4 layer and it's very thin and its break very very easly.
And the very (very very and very) cheap internal RTC battery it's a bomb that discarge very fast and relase acid that corredes the CPU traces with the time. Great!

Seriusly, the psp production it's a shame with cheap component (analog, lcd, connctors, EVEN switches etc), worst solder that i've see and a very fragile motherboard, that's something horrible if we must think that the console is an handheld wich is subject to torsion, moisture (humidity and that if we think of our sweat) and heat variation....

And we want talk about the fantastic analog connection design? or the great ms socket soldering design of the 200x?

 

Are you in ASIA ? That was what I saw on Asia/Mexico PSPs. Not Japan/USA PSPs though. Oh and the newer ones were ROHS compliant so yes the solder is worse.

 

No, in EU

 

Let's just say "the vita ain't no psp"....

 

Oh yeah. That's ROHS for you.

 

Yeah, ROHS, the stupidies and "programmed obsolescence-like" law in the world