PS2 Controllers

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by franchy36, Jun 26, 2017.

  1. franchy36

    franchy36 Rising Member

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    Hi folks
    I have come a cross a pretty massive bundle of PS2 controllers that I am trying to repair, I have learned that there seems to be no rhyme or reason as far as the model number on the back of the controller and or the letter designation, A, H or M, I have opened like 50 and internally there are variations, this makes it a challenge for buying parts.
    Some of the PCB ribbon circuits are removable and those are easy to replace, but there are some that are soldered and all I can find online are not a match, even the ones that comes with the connector, after ordering some replacement parts I realize that the connector on the controller has 19 PIN and I got the 18 PIN version and so far I haven't found one in my large pile that has 18 PIN's, also none of the PCB ribbon circuits have 19 pins, does anyone has a list or chart that explains the mystery?
    I like to get at least 150 repaired if possible.
    Thanks
     
  2. Tokimemofan

    Tokimemofan Dauntless Member

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    Good luck, I gave up a long time ago. It is a complete crapshoot which flexboard you need except for the H controllers which usually have the soldered version.
    Edit:
    A= Alps
    H= Hori
    M= I forgot who made these
    The letter refers to who they outsourced the controller to that day.
     
  3. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Don't H controllers of all kinds (sans the non analog version) have interchangeable casings? (i.e DS2 controller, H-type in PSone (white) H-type controller casing)
     
  4. Tokimemofan

    Tokimemofan Dauntless Member

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    No idea
     
  5. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    I just checked:

    A = Alps
    Those are a royal pain in the rear to work with. They have a pretty fragile membrane that connects to the main PCB with nothing else but foam that contains the analog sticks. I personally had one and I had to throw it away because of that membrane breaking.

    H = Hori
    Those are the easiest to work with. No membrane, PCBs are connected through a soldered ribbon cable so you don't worry about any membrane breaking. Quite easy to find along with A-type controllers.

    M = Mitsumi
    About as hard as Alps, so all I said about Alps applies here. Pretty rare to find though.
     
  6. Tokimemofan

    Tokimemofan Dauntless Member

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    It is more complex than that here are the variants I have seen
    1: Soldered on Flex Board very common usually seems to be Hori only worst reliability.
    2: Foam pressure mount Flex board common Alps variant, prone to wierd issues if the shell is damaged
    3: Left side plug in Flex board common Alps variant
    4: same as 3 but the Flex board plugs in on rear side of the pcb
    5 Right side plug in Flex board, seems the be the only Mitsumi variant and has a 7 screw case rare but seems to be the most reliable
    6: Dual plug in Flex board Alps likely early JP or dev controller, N1158 is a sticker and a patent sticker on the controller. Rarest of all variants, only ever seen 1.
     
  7. NeC5552

    NeC5552 All your skullz are belong to us.

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    Ah yes.

    1 - Usually inserted in a non removable connector.
    2 - That was the one I threw away. It has to be the most fragile membrane w/ flex I've ever seen. L2 traces broke on mine.
    3 - Common Alps variant
    4 - Early Alps variant
    5 - Matches all Mitsumi made Dualshock 2s
    6 - Can't find any results on that... do you have any pictures? That sounds interesting.
     
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