All Controllers work fine at first and are tested on other systems. This happens on both controller ports. When strong rumble kicks in on a PS2 game, the controllers will loose connection (the console does promt this) for as long as the rumble stays. To specify this, the controller is allready lost and the rumble stays on for up to 8 seconds (Flatout straight into a wall). When the rumble is gone, 2 seconds later everything is fine again.
Try opening a controller and disconnecting the rumble motors. That will help you pin it down to the motors or something else.
Removing the motors tells me nothing, because it will not draw any current and so it will not fail. I don't want to flame you or so, but i allready wrote that these are tested on other systems. Would be crazy if all my 15 controllers have the same problem.
Im just stoked to get 2 of the worst answers on this forum. What a waste of my time. I don't know how electricity works in your country, but here it will go the shortest way. If there is a short, there will be no power inside the pad to work.
Are they genuine SONY DualShock 2 controllers? If they are clone controllers, maybe they don't follow the SONY specifications properly and hence don't work properly on some consoles. How are you connecting them to your console? Are you connecting them directly to the PlayStation 2, or are you going through another device like a multitap? Have you tried connecting the controllers to different ports? SONY wrote that the overcurrent limiting mechanism is "internal to the library", so have you tried different games (best if you can find games that were made with different library versions)? Finally, is your console modchipped? If it's chipped, what chip is it?
You're going all in, i like that. I have had that problem with all controllers across the board. Not using a multitap, both ports had it and i don't have a chip inside. 1. Luke gave me the right hint. I will just post his facebook message. Luke Morse: "It's probably that grounding tab where the controller plugs into the system. Small metal tab on the end of the cable on top of the plastic plug that goes into the system. Scratch away the gunk on it, and on the fat controller port bend Down the small metal tab that makes contact with it so it gets a better connection. Should be good after that " 2. I will have another problem in the future when i will use the Multitab (if i find a multiplayer game with rumble). The 6.5 volt capacitor just reads 3.5 volt at the moment, that is close to dead. The latest Ps2 versions even use close to 9 volt if im informed right. 3. I did a contiuity (hope it written right) check on the Metal tab Luke reffered me to. I found out that it is actually 2 parts, which have diodes somwhere at the end to prevent something bad to happen i guess. If you can read straight from left to right, something is wrong (good to know for future problems i think). I scratched away the dirt from the consoles metal tab with a nail file and bend it down. There was no need for doing this to my controllers, because most of them are brand new. It works flawless now!