PS2 FAT SCPH 30001R stays on red light when pressing power/eject button

Discussion in 'Repair, Restoration, Conservation and Preservation' started by tichua, Nov 11, 2013.

  1. tichua

    tichua Site Supporter 2012,2013,2014,2015

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    Dear Assemblersss

    I took some of my PS2s off the display shelf today for moving. Before putting them back in the boxes, I power each of them on just for testing. One of the PS2s has an issue that it always stays on red light when I press the power/reset or reject button. The light never turned to green or blue. It only stayed in red. I got this issue once before and I fixed it by replacing the power/reset cable. For the current system, I would try avoiding open the system since it's one of the European Automotive models. I know the options are very limited without opening the system but does any know how I can fix (or what might fix) the red light issue ?

    Many thanks.
     
  2. APE

    APE Site Supporter 2015

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    You seem to have answered your question already, it's going to require you to open the sucker and swap some parts.

    Unless it was intended to be that way.
     
  3. tichua

    tichua Site Supporter 2012,2013,2014,2015

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    Thanks APE. I was thinking the same but it doesn't hurt to ask so I asked first :D
     
  4. tichua

    tichua Site Supporter 2012,2013,2014,2015

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    Got it fixed by opening the console. One of the capacitors on the power supply was leaking. I replaced it and everything is working normally.

    Thanks everyone for PM me with their suggestions and advises. I truly appreciate it
     
  5. l_oliveira

    l_oliveira Officer at Arms

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    Just to add to the thread, the early PS2 models use a mesh of wires with crimped connectors instead of a flat cable for the power/eject buttons.

    These are susceptible to oxidization at the connectors, which may cause the buttons to quit working. It is a somewhat common issue on SCPH-10000/15000/18000 and the two early USA PS2 units with automatic tilt adjust motor (SCPH-30001 USA "V1" and "V2" or DTL-H3000x with 10 screws). Disassembling and re-seating the said connections is often enough to rectify the issue.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2013
  6. Tokimemofan

    Tokimemofan Dauntless Member

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    He said SCPH-30001R though, so we know it is a V4-6 unit.
    BTW on my V3 the connector got damages on the cable and because of that the blue light doesn't work, I'd take a close look at that.
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2013
  7. l_oliveira

    l_oliveira Officer at Arms

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    I know. I was being generous (information)... >.>
     
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