PS2 not spinning up disks (dead motor?)

I have had minimal problem's getting laser's off the bay. I have bought all sorts from sega stuff to PS2 and XBOX lasers.

I have had one problem recently with a JVC Optima 5 for a Mega CD model 1 and 1 other, but not bad overall. Liberty Electronics were good.

 

Hmmm, okay, what laser would you suggest from eBay? I've been reading that the version C laser (part number KHS-400) is more reliable than the A or B version, and this one is compatible with my GH-007 PS2 right? So that's the one I should choose? I've also noticed two different versions of the lasers that have "SONY" embossed into the dustcover. One with "KHS-400C" embossed into the dustcover and one without. You'd think that the one without the "KHS-400C" embossing wouldn't be a version C laser, but the description says it is! Which one should I choose?

 

Hmm, this is odd.
On the one hand, it sounds like the laser is bad (no red light).
On the other hand, it sounds like it fails to spin the motor (as the motor actually does a little spin).

In a dark room, with no disc in the drive, you should EASILY (and very safely) see the red light flashing in the lens, if looking at a 45 degree angle from 50cm distance.

Unfortunatelly, even if it is the laser appears to be bad, there is a risk that the laser is ok but that the optical drive control board is broken (that L-shaped board under the optical drive). These boards are really prone to breaking, and are also relatively hard to find replacements for (in v4+, the board is merged with the mainboard and are less likely to break for some reason.

Note that there is a thermal pad on the two BA chips on that L board. Some people think these aren't important (it doesn't look important) so they don't mind if they fall off or break. If it is missing on your machine, it is very like to cause problems, if not now, then in the future due to overheading. Regardless, you might want to consider replacing that thermal pad if you get the machine to work.

I think KHS-400C is the most reliable laser model and also the most common. However, if you put in a new laser and get a laser model different from the model you already have (i.e. a C if you currently have a B), you will need to run a homebrew known as "lenschanger.elf" to flash the firmware to work with the new model. If you don't want to bother with that or don't have a way to run homebrew (like freemcboot etc), you'll need to find a KHS-400B.

I don't think you need to care about how the plastic cover looks, there are several different variations but as long as it says KHS-400B/C somewhere on the laser (embossed on the cover or on a sticker on one of it's sides) it should be fine. Many ebay sellers use stock pictures so that's not much to go by. Also note that they MAY have a solder dot you'll need to remove and that they MAY require calibration.

 

I popped open my v3 unit and checked, without a disc it does indeed give the spindle a turn, that behavior is apparently normal, so for this model the observed behavior is correct for either a disconnected laser or a dead Laser Diode/Photo Diode Array IC chip. Buy a KHS-400B if possible, I've long suspected that the perceived unreliability of the earlier lasers has more to do with the newer drives (>v4) having better dust protection than any difference in the laser build quality.
Edit: Useful guide here http://www.ps2parts.com/laser_adjustment.html

 

Oh, so my laser is dead after all? Looks like a replacement laser is indeed what I need. For the sake of completeness, what happens if you disconnect your laser? Does the spindle do a sad little turn like mine is doing or does it behave as before?

 

Some great info there! Thanks!

When you say the optical drive control board "breaks" do you mean it gets physically broken, or it just electronically dies? Based on what you've said, it would be best to confirm that the laser is dead before moving on to replacing the optical drive control board, so I think I'll try out a new laser and see if things improve.

So my laser is probably dead after all? Looks like a replacement laser is indeed what I need. For the sake of completeness, what happens if you disconnect your laser? Does the spindle do a sad little turn like mine is doing or does it behave as before?

I take it by your recommendation of a B over a C is because my drive is currently using a B? Can anyone confirm/deny Tokimemofan's suspicions about laser reliability? If there's no difference in build quality, it seems pointless to buy a C and needing to flash the BIOS to make it work, when a B will plug 'n' play. But, if Cs are better built, I'd prefer that.

 

About the board, the problem is electronical, I think it's usually caused by overheating. So again, if you get the thing to work, check if the thermal pad is still there and if so do what you can to leave it intact (it is glued on but dries over time, easily cracks and falls of and then you'll have to replace it) so try to not to lift the optical drive from the case. The pad leads of heat from the BA chips to the metal plate above the expansion bay and really IS important.

I should mention that the bios flashing thing is probably not as hard as it sounds. (Btw, my mistake, it's not actually the bios, it's the eeprom I think.) If you can run homebrew, just launch "lenschanger.elf", it has GUI and all, detects the PS2 model and let's you pick from the lasers that version is compatible with, and updates the machine in seconds. There's no need to find a proper image to flash with or something like that, the hard part is definitly being able to run homebrew.

To be safe, when I change laser version, to avoid damaging the laser, I always remove the old laser, run Lenschanger with no laser in the machine, then tuck in the new laser. Not sure if that is needed though. I THINK that B and C are kind-of-ish compatible, the difference is that they require a bit different software calibration (or something like that), hence why some people say it works, other it doesn't. For example I remember someone that replaced one with the other, and it would play games for 2 hours or so and then started to fail until the machine was restarted. If lenschanger.elf is used there shouldn't be any problems though.

Regarding the B vs C, to be honest I have nothing but anecdotal evidence... I guess buying lasers today is a bit of a gamble anyway, and if the prices are similar I'd probably go for a B anyway and not have to do the flashing thing.

 

When I mod chip it (after I get it working!) I'll be able to run homebrew, but I think I'll take your advice and just get a B laser

 

Do people still modchip PS2s?

All you need is a 3,5" IDE hard drive, an official PS2 network adapter, and a memory card with Free McBoot and you can run homebrew and install all games (original, imports, backups, except PS1 games) over the network, cut all loading times by ~half, make the machine quieter, and wont wear on the laser nor the games. All without you needing to even touch the hardware, in fact you can even keep that bad laser!

(Note: I strongly discourage piracy of course, but even for one like me that only play original games, the free mcboot + hd loader combo is bloody awesome!)

 

Of course. Each mod's different effects work in cooperation. :smile-new:

Myself I've got modchip, network adapter, hard drive, and memory card. Just no flip top to save potential tray wear.
US/EU/JP PS1 and PS2 all right from the tray as if never modded. Without even a swap disc.

 

Is the Space Pope reptilian?

 

Well alright then

Didn't mean to sound rude or so, all I want is that everyone that conciders chipping their PS2s should be aware how much can be achieved without modifying the ahrdware

But I realize now everyone here probably already know that. I'm new here

 

I tested the disconnected laser scenario, it acts the same way as if there isn't a disc in the drive, BTW almost every drive will behave as if there is no disc, laser units are rather dumb, the business end being a set of photo diodes and laser diodes.

 

It's OK. I like bragging about the luxury setup.

 

I know, but I want to be able to use the original import disks, no ripping or backups. So it's a modchip for me.

Your spindle acted the same? It spun like normal? Hmmm, I wonder what that means for me.

 

You are right, you can achieve more with FMCB than a chipped system.
FMCB put APE, BAD and myself out of bussiness.
We are setting on thousands of modchips and can't even give them out for free, people don't want them.
Plus FMCB is a lot cheaper, I seen people sell FMCB cards for $50 and that's a lot cheaper and easier than to install a modchip.

http://www.gocybershopping.com/product.php?productid=2281

 

To each his own. Ask APE how much money I've spent on Gamecube parts and mods. Icedcube cases don't grow on trees!
Besides that system may still have to go back for repair, somewhere along the line I messed it up so retail games won't read.

 

I think that they usually say that KHS-400C lasers are more reliable than KHS-400B lasers. The KHS-400C should be a drop-in replacement for the KHS-400B, unless your console is a SCPH-10000 or SCPH-15000 that cannot support the newer lasers.

You cannot flash the "BIOS" of the Playstation 2 as there is nothing to flash (It's in a ROM chip). If you need to adjust the laser type setting within the MECHACON EEPROM, it's for getting your console to either support the R-type (Sanyo KHS-400R and HD7) lasers or not (Sony KHS-400A/B/C). Only consoles after v5 will support this.

 

I have heard that too, but in my experience a dirty collimator lens is the most common failure mode for all Sony lasers and the HD7 lasers which have a similar dust cover design, the only major design differences seem to be size, the PD array circuit (the reason SCPH-10000 units don't work with later lasers: http://www.assemblergames.com/forum...-drive-problem&p=613599&viewfull=1#post613599) the implementation of the diffraction grating (most A/B lasers have a discrete one, later ones have it mounted on the LD/PD chip). In order to know for sure we would need a long term study of A/B/C compatibles after a replacement. Either way as long as you can keep the dust out of the laser they will last a long time, of course this comes from someone who compulsively sticks a screwdriver into a Pioneer VDR-V1000A Laserdisc Recorder (worth over $1000).

 

If you were replying to jinn - there was a huge amount of sarcasm in his post.