I'm working on a PS3 for a good friend of mine (well, he owns a shop and bought it in a lot of stuff). At first, it was basically derelict - no red light when plugged in and switched on in the back. So, I strip it down to the power supply, crack that open and I find two fuses. The first one, nearest the initial AC plug tests fine. The second, found on the other end between some voltage regulators, isn't. So I ran to the shop, nabbed a 4A 250v fast-acting fuse, installed a fuse holder with leads (just in case ) and slapped it together enough to test. Pop, the lamp in the same power strip dimmed and the fuse blew. Bummer. Near the fuse, it states "T4AH/250V". As much as I can gather, the H stands for "high current". Is it likely necessary that this exact fuse is required? It seems odd that current (IE amps, correct?) would be listed as a number (as always) but then a fuse could be "high current" as well? I obviously don't understand this aspect, so... some insight? Slow blows still blow. Or, is this PSU fuxxed? Or, is this entire PS3 fuxxed? Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated.
Before you call "it quits" on that PS3, try another power supply. These bishes supply 32amps on it's 12 rail and considering their size they're ultra compact. That has a cost and it's the fact that they're of ridiculously complex design. My suggestion is that you stop doing these scientific tests before you ruin the whole PS3 and look for a replacement PSU.
Yeah, I think I'm just going to inform the owner that it will require a new supply. Plus, I'm sure he'll want to get rid of it for pretty cheap. My current PS3 is a lame 80GB model, and this one is a 60... so I can free up my PS2 spot and put something else there if I were to acquire this one.
Remove PSU, take it to electrical repair store, have them at least check it over and see whether the current unit is actually viable. You could end up spending a few $ more just obtaining another PSU when the one you have could be sorted. I also agree with Alecjahn, don't be tempted into just sticking any old 'similar' looking fuse into the PSU. Years ago I had a large Behringer Eurodesk 24 channel mixing desk and it kept popping fuses the second you switched the PSU on. I went out, bought the value as required in the manual and written on the side of the fuse. Eventually, having blown 3 in quick succession I asked the vendor who informed me that I should stick in a higher value fuse (I could have figured that one out myself), but I was never happy about it.
On this case it's pretty obvious that the VSB power supply is blown. The fuse blows instantly as power is applied. I had a repair once that I actually analyzed the power supply and (the model I serviced) had a dual mosfet actuation system (I think it's a new sort of power switching circuitry, as I never saw anything like that) which also seemed to be microcontroller based. (There were a SONY part on the PWM control circuitry) In this case, the PS3 would show the red led perfectly but would then refuse to stay on as one of the two mosfet blew, along with a "fusible restor" on it's supply lane. The main PSU could not start in that scenario thus causing the VSB circuit detected no +12v, sending three beeps and turning off the green light again. The power supply on my own PS3 (november 2006 20GB) is somewhat different and I'm yet to see one of this kind blown. I am calling the troublesome PSU as "b type". It has a top case made of aluminum while what I am calling "a type" is made of normal metal and is gray-ish. Also the "b type" one have two or three screws on the top of it's case while the "a type" only have screws on the sides. This information regards only CECHA(60GB COK-001 mobo), CECHB(20GB COK-001 mobo) and CECHC(60GB PAL/80GB US COK-002 mobo) series of PS3s.
Where would be the best place to start checking components for complete failure (just for kicks) - right near the fuse/directly connected via the circuit? Well, is it possible that some simple (heh, "simple") component has failed - possibly a trasistor or rectifier has shorted? One thing I need to test is plugging in the PSU and keeping it floating above it's main motherboard connection, basically just connecting the AC connection and leaving it atonymous from the rest of the system. I wouldn't think the rest of the PS3 is causing the fault, but this would seem like the quickest way to sort that out. As tested units on eBay are only 40-50 bucks I'm thinking actual "professional" repair/diagnosis will be out of the question. I just always have this feeling of an obligation to repair something instead of replace it. Plus, the knowledge gained is worth the effort alone.
Fair enough - I know from other US members that it's actually hard (and expensive) to locate a repair store. I am lucky as my local guy will test & repair certain items for $20. He'll let you know in advance before he proceeds whether it'll cost any more than that, so you get the option to say no. Correct about the information however, it might be helpful if it turns out to be a regular issue.
Thread Resurrection! So I've got a dead 60GB PS3 Power Supply here. Model ZSSR5391A It's completely dead. Nothing happens when you flick the power switch. I tested a different PSU in the PS3 and it did get juice. Pulled this dead PSU apart out of curiosity and found the same issue that this person seemed to have. This is not my PS3 so I don't know how or why the fuse is broken but I might as well try this instead of just throwing it away. F002 fuse location on the PSU PCB seems to be dead. T4AH 250v is all that is marked. Through some quick research I've found that it's apparently a Time Delayed 4 Amp "High Break" (or current?) 250V I guess. It's easy to find the fuse by searching the T4AH 250v numbers but they don't have pigtails on them. I was able to do some digging through Newark and found these but the "Breaking Capacity" is what is throwing me off. They have a couple other 4 Amp 250v fuses but are Fast Acting or Medium acting etc and have different Breaking Capacity. Blow Characteristic: Time Delay Breaking Capacity: 1.5kA @ 250V AC Fuse Current: 4A Fuse Size Imperial: 0.2" x 0.79" Fuse Size Metric: 5mm x 20mm SVHC: No SVHC (20-Jun-2013) Series: 215SP Voltage Rating VAC: 250V Any ideas? All things point to that fuse I found but I just want to double check that maybe someone on here can give some insight into the "High Break" spec or whatever.
High break would be a higher than normal blow point for the fuse, I don't know what a typical point would be for 250V, but it must be 15-20%, I would assume high break would be something over that, and meant only to prevent a fire and not really save the device. If it was meant to protect the device, it would have a fuse holder or something on the back like a high quality device. Replace the psu, they are a dime a dozen.
Fiiiiiineee. Suck all the fun out of it. Hard to make money repairing something when you just buy whole parts Found a APS-231 PSU for $14 shipped. Apparently the PSU runs the coolest? Now I'm just left with the blu-ray drive throwing a 80010017 error on PS3 games. Hmm. Thanks
Might be better to get an APS-226. It has the same output rating as the ZSSR5391A and efficiency is similar to the APS-231.
Just wanted to comment on this thread about the PSU fuse. On top of ordering a different replacement PSU, I went ahead and ordered these fuses to see if it'd work. It's the same one that I listed a few posts above. And it does! Just got done soldering that sucker in and the PS3 is working. Powered it on and off a few times and ran a PS3 game and it's still going. I guess the real test is how/when the fuse blows when there is an actual issue but I don't really have a way to test that and don't really want to haha.
