So I replaced the standard 1200mah battery in my PSP 3000 with a 3000mah LiPo. I've used the PCB from the original battery to connect the new one to the PSP, but after testing, I've noticed the battery life isn't that much longer than the 4 or so hours I was getting on the original battery. I'm getting about 5 and half hours now. Correct me if I am wrong, but with 3000mah, I should be getting somewhere around 10-12 hours right? What gives?
Where is the new battery from? Plenty are fake with numbers far greater than their actual capacity printed on them.
While you're at it, maybe check the numbers on it to see when it was manufactured. If it is old stock, maybe it has already deteriorated. Maybe you have to cycle the battery too, so that the controller PCB would be calibrated for the new battery level.
The battery is fine. I tested it with a capacity tester beforehand. It actually tested around 3100mah. It's also still measuring 3.7v, even though the PSP says 0% and refuses to switch on
IIRC the max capacity of the cell is programmed in the main eeprom battery, so if it's programmed for 1400mA your 3000mA cell will be never fully charged... You have to edit the eeprom values, but you should stay away from editing it if you don't know what you are doing because in worst case battery can explode
I'm thinking the official battery's PCB has some special memory/protection built into it that only allows it to use the rated 1200mah of the original battery. I'm assuming if I used an aftermarket PSP battery PCB, it wouldn't have such protection, and my 3000mah cell should work properly? I already have an aftermarket PSP battery on order, so if I don't get anywhere with this, I can easily test that theory.
PSP battery eeprom has no protection... The maximum value for cell charging is "there" for obvious reasons... You will find the same thing even for the fake battery (and no, even the fake says 3A lots of time are cheap 900mA)
Li-Po batterys use a controller to protect energy cells from over/under -voltage and discharge to zero. You need to find a proper BMS IC or mod the current BMS firmware https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_management_system
Yes, but that didn't answer the question as to where it came from, so that's why I asked. It could help us diagnose your problem.
Sure, i don't mean to sound rude, but why does it matter where it came from? If it works fine, then that's all that matters surely?