I tried to bypass the existing RGB in my Super Famicom with a THS7314 amp like I did with my N64. I cut the traces near the connector to disconnect the existing RGB, and wired the inputs to the RGB inputs on the BA6592F encoder. I'm just getting a black screen. Is this the right way to do it, and if not, how do I do it? I'm not looking to get rid of the horizontal smear, as that doesn't bother me at all on my CRT, but I want to get rid of the vertical lines on my screen. I already soldered a 220uF cap on the 7805, but that only got rid of the line in the middle. There is a big one on the right side (not photographed because the RGB doesn't function right now). Couldn't find any information on bypassing the SHVC-CPU-01, only the PAL 3CHIP and the 1CHIP.
Restored the original RGB, but there was horrible screen flickering on bright screens. Turns out the new voltage regulator was bad even though it tested at exactly 5v on my multimeter. Restored the original and now it's gone. The left-side line is still there, but less noticeable. Pictures don't show it, so I can't exactly show you. It looks the same as the vertical line problem, but on the left side instead of the middle.
What most people do against this is adding big capacitors to the 7805. Something like 1000uF will help. The next step is adding more / bigger ceramic capacitors near the CPU and WRAM. The vertical line is a voltage drop caused by DRAM refreshes. The capacitors help smoothing that out. The last option is to lift a pin on the CPU, which tells it not to do any DRAM refreshes. I've done this before and didn't notice any problems, but in theory some games could simply loose their data in RAM after a while. An RGB bypass isn't quite so simple with 3 Chip SNES'. As far as I know, this is the first / only correct mod so far (in German): http://circuit-board.de/forum/index...GB-Bypass-für-PAL-3-Chip-SNES-SNSP-CPU-01-02/
But the line in the middle is gone since I soldered the 220uF cap to the 7805. If I can't do the bypass, then I have a spare 1000uF. And the link you sent for the PAL systems.
RGB signals out of PPU2 are the same so the schematic for the THS7314 should work on your console. Composite out from the regular encoder could be different though (in case the mod doesn't totally disable it anyway). I don't suppose you have an oscilloscope? You can actually see the problem by tapping one of the RGB lines. (PAL) 1Chip consoles are overdriven on a white screen. You can see a lot of overshoot and ringing at the beginning of a field. I haven't checked 3Chip on the scope yet. Ah, forgot: There is one clock signal (5Mhz) from a PPU pin 27 to the extension port. The trace radiates noise into the video lines and since the extension port is largely unused, you could lift the pin and disable this. It helps quite a bit on LCD screens, where this would show up as a kind of jailbars. https://imgur.com/Mt1sNr4
