Quick questions on Xbox360 modding

Well I've moved a few times with it and it has been by far the longest time that I had owned a single 360. It was also one of the most difficult console mods that I had ever done at that point. I bought it originally from Ebay and it had a Benq drive. By that point I had Benq/Samsung/HLG drive flashing down to a fine art so I had it drive modded pretty much straight away. It soon started to red ring though so I returned it to Microsoft who promptly sent it back with a Liteon drive in it and thus began my first escapade into the world of trace cuts and extracting the key using a probe before wiping the drive's chip completely. Taking a xacto knife to that PCB board for the first time was a truly harrowing experience but it turned out OK in the end.

If I jtagged a console then it would never touch Live again although I don't really play 360 games on Live anymore anyway. I modchipped my original Xbox and for that reason had never even used Live until the 360 launched.

 

Ahhhh man, those are fun! On the phat drives thankfully I've never had to do anything more than a probe and a few well timed cuts to the drive's power. I believe I've done pretty much every drive mod at this point though, have done both Kamikazi and trace cut mods on the 16D4S drives and I've only done one 16D5S but you have to RGH the console to get the DVD key then flash that to an unlocked board. That one isn't too hard, mostly time consuming and expensive. However I was doing it to my dual-nand Corona which my buddy already fitted for me so all I had to do was buy an unlocked PCB and rebuild the firmware

 

Tbh, I have avoided the slim models for that reason alone even though they are obviously more appealing to look at and are supposedly immune to any RROD nonsense. If I was going to get another one then I would probably opt for a Jasper. I did have a spare Jasper that was in great condition but I foolishly sold it last year when I was 'encouraged' to have a clear out.

I believe the newer probes don't require any trace cuts on the non-slim Liteon drives it was just that the probe that I used did and that was all that was around at the time.

 

So my Cool Runner revC clone came in. I took a look over the board to see if there was any bad build quality but it looks really good everything is on the pads perfectly fine. Only thing i need to do now is build a cable and then I will begin the modding process. (been enjoying a few new games recently I got for the system, and man I never realized how HOT these things actually could get )

 

The console exterior shouldn't get all that hot. There are 3 massive fans on the back to ensure that doesn't happen. Which motherboard version is it?

 

Two*

 

Oh yeah.

To be fair I don't think that I have opened a 360 for around 4 years now.

 

Oh the exterior plastics aren't too hot I just meant the system was moving an awful lot of heat out the rear more than i am used to in a game console at least more than the ps3 on the TV shelf. Granted I just now began the modding work on the system and there was alot of dust in there ;P. I actually tapped 3.3v dc off pin 2 of the XDK header. Confirmed with my multi-meter a 3.3 DC V connection, now I need to find a 3k3 resistor either in my resistor box or off a scrap donor board .

My plan is, since my LPT port cant supply 3.3v to just tap it off from some where else on the board to power the coolrunner during its programing cycles. Then after I build the temporary power cabling I will move to the LPT cable portion!

http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/tutorial/Xbox_360-HandC-V1_4.pdf this document is very useful actually!

 

So ended up building the glitch chip programmer cable first thinking that was what I used to read my nand data off my board OOPS (so I rebuilt that cable to read the nand from the motherboard). No worries though I built a second cable for my CoolRunner programming out of an old printer cable. I started following a tutorial from Se7ensins about doing glitch chip mods to the 360 as it included information about using LPT and cleared up a lot of my confusion on some parts of the process.

I also originally did not know the size of my nand chip on my Jasper but I did a quick google for a data sheet on the hylinix chip that is on the board and I deduced it was a 16mb Jasper. Then I made my dumps using nandpro as per the se7ensins tutorial which worked great. I read my 2 nand dumps following the tutorial on the site. Next I compared the two nand dumps using J Runner everything was a perfect match.

[edit] used the wrong LPT port # [edit]
Thanks guys!