Recapped and reseated Genesis Model 2 Problem

I recapped my Sega Genesis Model 2 VA1.8, as well as made sure the solder in the power jack stayed in place. It was tested working. But when I put the thing back together, the unit won't power on and a burning smell came out of the power jack. The underside of this unit is pretty odd compared to other pictures, as there are wires instead of clean traces.



What the hell is going on? I am using an official power adapter btw.

 

Forget it. After I have recapped this Sega Genesis. I killed it by shorting out the component next to the power jack. I flowed too much and the voltage got mixed with the ground. After removing all the excess solder, I found out that the component next to the power jack, a little square thing with four points (RC04S) got short circuited and in a fit of rage I desoldered and tore out that part. Now I have one dead Genesis that I wasted a total of $20 on. Live and learn, I guess.
Luckily the other Genesi won't be giving me problems yet... Two are model 1s, and the other model 2 I didn't do much to it, though I fear the same damn problem.

 

Is that four prong part a rectifier diode?

 

It's a double inductor to filter EMI interference, from TDK if I am not mistaken and indeed a short circuit would certainly cause it to burn out.

You can find a similar inductor on a NTSC SNES scrap or you can just remove it and bypass with wires.

 

That little black part right next to the jack is called a power inductor? What's the part number on digikey?

 

I don't know if you will be able to find it on Digikey. It's a Japanese part, from TDK.

 

Digikey and other sites call this "EMI filter" double inductor a choke.

 

Choke is the engineering term for it as it's supposed to block any radio frequency energy that isn't supposed to escape the device (EMI = Electro Magnetic Interference).

I downloaded the PDF and while it doesn't look physically like the original device, it sounds like a good replacement.

Since I live in a country where nobody cares about specs I would just bypass it and call it done. lol

 

I fixed it by wiring to the traces. Only problem is the RF shielding being a little pesky when pressed close to the wires. Bending it helped. I'm never buying these model 2s anymore. They're a bigger hassle.

 

i find model twos less hassle.

 

Not me. I much prefer the simplicity of the model 1s. DIP chips for solder points, easy to mod, lots of room, better sound, etc. The only Model 1 units I hate are VA7 units, since they're essentially a model 2 in a model 1 form factor.