Repairing Gamecube Component Cable NEED HELP!

Hello, my Nintendo Gamecube Component Cable was cut clean with a scissor and I need help. Would anyone be willing to help?! I doubt I can do this myself as I'm not really knowledgeable in these fields.

 

You would have to solder the wires back together. Judging from the picture, it looks color coded so just solder the corresponding colors back together. Red to Red, Green to Green, and Blue to Blue. If you can, put some shrink tubing over the cable first. After soldering the wires, move the shrink tubing over the wires and heat it with a lighter until it's flush with the cable.

You know, I wish I had the official cable but it really isn't worth it anymore since GCVideo lite (direct clone of Component cable) and GCVideo DVI (HDMI version) came out. You can get those for much cheaper than the official cable. I have DOL-101 so I would have to solder the cable or GCVideo directly to the GC's motherboard for it to work.

 

Thank you for the information. Unfortunately I don't have the tools or know how to repair or solder it myself. I'm willing to ship it to anyone who can repair it if possible and pay them for the work. Interested?

Also I never heard of those work arounds. How can I get my hands on either?

 

I can do it if you want. PM me and I'll give you a quote.

Well the work arounds haven't been put into cable form yet so it requires gathering the parts and building it. After that, you need to solder it to either the Digital AV port or the GC's motherboard. The results with the DVI version are better than the official cable. If interested, here is the forum thread for it: http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/gcvideo-open-source-gamecube-component-cable-solution.53464/

EDIT: PM'ed

 

Thank you again, I PM'ed you back. Didn't know there were still cool people in this world willing to help!

 

Your quite welcome! I'm always willing to help somebody out. The GC component cable is what really got me into the inner workings of electronics lol.

 

I mean, soldering would be much more ideal but if you simply strip the wires and twist the wires together and then use some electrical tape it would do the job. It would work better than nothing.

 

Im dying to know how it happened.

 

A unfriendly neighbor must've gotten to my mail...

 

you will most likley have to de-braid the shielding and twist it into a wire shape and solder that together too.. and to prevent interference probably wrap the whole thing with a layer of tin foil and then put heat shrink over it. I had to solder an ipod wire back together once (was doing custom routing through a grommet on a Harley Davidson motorcycle) and it was getting interference until I did the tin foil trick. Soldering shielded cables with lots of tiny wires inside is a real PITA, but it can be done with patience and decent soldering skills.

 

It's completely impossible to repair. No way, no how. Can't be done.

I'll buy it from you for $10. That's all it's worth. Get value out of it while you can.

 

It's just three wires. It won't be hard to repair. Worst case scenario, we put a new cable on the plug. It's outputting in YPbPr mode (it should by default) so no need for a bunch of wires like if it was in RGB mode.

 

LOL, nice try.

 

If you end up doing the repair remember what I said about the shielding and the tin foil. Better to be safe and take extra precaution the first time around than having to cut it all open again.

 

I am the one going to do the repair. I'm definitely going to be safe about it and do what you suggested. I already talked to my dad who deals with Audio/Video cables for a living and what you said is also what he said to do.

 

Nice, take some pics whilst you're at it and write up a tutorial. I'm sure it'll come in handy in the future for other users.

 

I was actually gonna record the whole thing for him. I'll be sure to take some pics as well and make a tutorial.

 

Hey guys! The cable came in Monday (It's now Tuesday at the time of posting this). It was in the mailbox all day so I didn't get a chance to look at it until later in the evening. Anyway, I took some pics of the damage and some detailed pics of the cable itself. I figured the Internet could use some more high resolution photos of this cable.

Warning! These images are quite large so I put them in spoilers to condense the size of this post. For the best results, view these on a 1080p or higher display. Without further ado, here they are:

Spoiler: Cable itself (Cut in Half)

Spoiler: Damage (Digital AV Plug Side)

Spoiler: Damage (RCA Side)

Spoiler: Digital AV Plug (Top)

Spoiler: Digital AV Plug (Bottom)

Spoiler: RCA Side of Cable (Yes, those are gold plated connectors)

Spoiler: Insane Strain Relief on the Digital AV Plug Side

Spoiler: Digital AV Plug compared to DB-25 Printer Port Cables (A friend said these plugs were bigger)

Spoiler: Size Compared to the Touch Screen on my Nintendo 3DS XL

Spoiler: Digital AV Plug

Spoiler: Digital AV Plug (Close Up)

A bit of trivia about this cable:

Despite popular belief, the GameCube does not produce nor does it output YPbPr (Analog Component Video). Instead, this huge plug contains all of the circuitry needed to create RGBHV (VGA; requires mod; disabled by defualt), YPbPr (enabled by default), and Digital Audio, which is compatible with TOSLINK (requires mod) from the GC's Digital Audio/Video signals. The Digital AV port allows for external access to the GameCube's Digital AV signals before they hit the GC's internal DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) chip and are sent to the Analog multi-out.

Again, despite popular belief, the Digital AV signals are still present on the later model DOL-101 GCs which had the Digital AV port removed. This cable and both versions of GCVideo will work on a DOL-101 as long as you solder it to certain spots on the GC's motherboard. This thread has a guide on how to do so.

 

Do you happen to own a vernier caliper? I sure could use some measurements of the physical dimensions of the plug.

 

I was actually going to message you about that lol. I do have one so I will make some measurements. My original assumption that it has metal on the plug was correct. Is the metal necessary or can a replacement plug be used without it?