Resistor/Cap Values on Pokemon Sapphire Board?

Hey All,
I'm looking for some guidance here. I recently picked up a lot of games and controllers on ebay which don't work. Some of them just need cleaning, etc. however, this particular one is a result of a botched repair attempt.

I crack open the Pokemon Sapphire, and the first thing I see is a CR2025 battery, which is way too big for that board/case. It also wasn't connected to one of the pads.

Secondly, it's missing a some components on the board. See the photo of mine below.
Missing off the board are:
R6 & C4 (Beside the small IC at the top)
R10 (Bottom-left



I'd love to get some replacement components and fix this, but I've got no idea what's supposed to be there, or where to find it. I couldn't find a detailed schematic of that board.

Below are two other pics of boards I found on the internet.



Any help is very appreciated. Thanks.

 

Nothing is supposed to be there

Here is mine:


EDIT: Sorry I thought you were talking about the missing parts above the battery pad. I didn't notice the ones you specifically mentioned are indeed missing

If no one else know the values of the top of their head, I can try desoldering mine and measuring them for you. I just don't have the time tonight

 

R10 looks unpopulated from the factory.

try these values. THESE ARE JUST GUESSES! 100nf for C4, 10k for R6. very common values. you certainly won't hurt anything by putting in the wrong value parts here.

 

C6: 0.082 uF 0402
R6: 100k ohm 0402
R10: 180k-200k ohm

Those are the values I got, but that's just a quick check. I'd like to see if matches @Bearking measurements to see if I checked them correctly

 

I can just tell you that that Ruby in the pic is fake

 

How did you measure the capacitance over C6? Since depending on the configuration of the circuit measuring the capacitance directly with a multimeter will in most cases give incorrect values. If the Gameboy adv cartridges has a standardised circuit layout maybe a schematic can be dug up? Though the most straight forward method of identifying the value of C6 would just be to solder it off before measuring.

 

I'm guessing you meant C4? It's probably a 0.1uF X5R or X7R cap, typical bypass/decoupling cap value. Your C3 looks a little off, that might just be the picture though. I would double check it just in case, it's probably another 0.1uF cap.

Edit: Oh the caps on your board all look like they're maybe C0G vs. the ones on Bearking's board which look like X5R or X7R. Your C3 is probably fine

 

@Zeigren yes I flubbed that one, C4 lol. I checked with a multimeter with capacimeter built in. It gave me that exact value on 2 of my games. Good to know it was close.

 

Could actually be spot on, that would be within a +/-20% tolerance which is pretty common for these kinds of caps.

 

Wow, thanks alot for the help. Very much appreicated. I'll try and order some parts and see if I can make this work.

Yes it is. On the site I got it from, it was someone comparing the two board designs as they were different. Everyone was quick to point out that the Ruby was fake.