RGB Monitor no video signal, Help!

So I've recently moved back to the UK from Japan and of course want to keep gaming but a very large portion of my collection including consoles are NTSC-J, I also like playing on a CRT so rather than deal with converters and the 50/60hz issue I decided to go the PVM RGB route.

So I got a PVM (Ikegami TM10-19RH (link to manual http://www.ikegami.com/br/products/sdtv/tm1019.html) and ordered the necessary cables to hook up my systems but my issue is I don't get any video

Heres a couple of videos to show you guys what I mean:

Super Famicom:


N64


As you can see I'm just getting the sound and nothing more. Super Famicom: Cabling is RGB SCART with sync on c, then female SCART to BNC RGB breakout cables with built-in Scync Stripper. N64: Cabling is composite out with composite to SCART adapter, hen female SCART to BNC RGB breakout cables with built-in Scync Stripper as before. (Link to cabling set up pics below)
http://gingerwhale7.imgur.com/all/

So what I'm wondering is, is the sync stripper causing problems or is my monitor bust.
Any help is really appreciated!

Thanks,

GingerWhale

 

That cannot work. The composite to SCART adapter only outputs composite video, not RGB.

Also, how is the sync stripper powered in this scenario?

Doesn't work, "GingerWhale7's images are not publicly available."

 

Hi thanks for the response,

Ah ok well that explains the no video for the N64 then, but the SFC is (or should be) outputting RGB...
The sync stripper is powered through 5-12 volts on pin 8 of the SCART which the SFC RGB cable is suposed to be wiered for.

You should be able to see the images now, sorry about that...
http://imgur.com/a/nJ62q

 

You should check where SCART pin 8 actually connects to on the SFC side - for a PAL system it would be pin 3 of the AV connector which carries 12V, but on NTSC SNES/SFC that pin instead carries CSync.

 

Yes.. check that the cable is wired for an NTSC console as SCART... not only is that pin different, but a Japanese cable won't be wired for SCART, despite having what looks like a SCART plug on it.

It's not a PGM, by the way - that's a Sony range. It's simply a broadcast monitor. And you might find a 10 inch monitor rather small for gaming.

Why don't you just put a composite or s-video signal into it to test the monitor?

 

Hey, sorry for the late reply, (I was away over the weekend).

Anyway...

Ok, so to check the wiring on teh SFC end of things I'd have to crack open the cable and I'm not sure how to go about that... any tips?

Its defiantly wired for NTSC as SCART, its not JP21.
This is the cable by the way: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-tv-lead-wire-cord

Oh my bad i though "PVM was just an acronym for Professional Video Monitor or something along those lines. Thanks for the correction
Yeah I know 10 inches inst much but I'm not working with very much space at the moment, always the possibility of an upgrade in the future though.

Thanks for this suggestion, it actually hadn't occurred to me to try this haha. But I dug out my Dreamcast S-Video cables and everything works on that front so its not the monitor which is good news.

Thanks again to both of you guys for all the help so far

 

It's your thread, take as long as you want!

Unscrew the screw thing then open it... usually.

Hehe... you mean definitely? Funnily enough, the whole PAL being wired differently IS rather defiant, you might say!

You have to make the best out of what you've got Although 10 inches is nothing to complain about haha

Well... it's not the monitor's s-video input, anyway!

An RGC cable should be wired correctly, but don't rule out a mistake. Did you tell them it was a PVM? I can't think of anything special for Sonys, though.

Those specs say there are controls for VIDEO/AUX (RGB or COMPONENT) - is that switched the right way?

Can you try it on a TV with SCART? Doesn't have to be CRT.

 

Ok so I did that and made quite an interesting discovery...


Everything looks normal,


But as you can see there are three wires that aren't soldered to anything?have come loose. So that would explain why I'm not getting any video signal through RGB.
So the Yellow and Brow wires are loose and the free solder sopts are "SYNC", "Ucc"? and "LEFT". Any idea which goes where/a link to a wiring schismatic?
There are also two wires Black and Sliver/Naked wired ti GND is that normal?

Good instincts there dude

So my first plan of action is the ask the place I bought it from for a replacement, but I can go in and fix it myself if I need but I just gotta work out what to solder to what...

P.S. Sorry for massive pics, no idea how to make them smaller

 

Probe them with a multimeter - find out which contact on the Nintendo side have continuity and look up the pinout.

That's Vcc, i.e. positive voltage. Left and right I assume are stereo sound.

Hopefully the wires weren't cut snug and there's a bit of extra play on them!

Resizing pics is easy with Fotosizer. www.fotosizer.com

 

Well that's annoying! And considering there isn't normal wire conventions inplace here except for R, G, B, and Gnd being the correct colours, the Grey cable, Yellow cable and Brown cable could be anything :S
Wiring it up to those pads in the wrong order could be bad too, considering one of those is voltage. Don't wanna send voltage to the wrong place, that's for sure.

If you have a multimeter, you could use a pinout diagram of the av multi plug, and attempt to see which wire goes to which pin. Might be easier to plug the av multi plug into the SNES, and read off the actual console itself. So, one end of the multimeter touching a pin on the consoles av side, and the other end of the multimeter touching each wire on the scart plug until it beeps or whatever.

The black wire with silver bare wire is basically the ground pin and the shield part of the scart cable being grounded. It's fine.

 

Thanks for the knowledge Left and Right, of course! Yeah I guess that one was quite obvious haha

Thank you very much

I contacted the site I bought the cable from and they are going to replace them for free so no multimeter probing for me.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions guys and I'll update when I get the new cables in and test them.

And thanks AtomizerZero for the info and PCB pic.